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Climbing at Malý ďábel

35 routes
2–11 grades

Part of 11. Mordor, Malý ďábel has 35 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 11. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Route in shadow, Fixed belay, Overhang, Sport Climbing.

Rules

First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.84315, 14.21647

Google Waze
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
4+
Malý ďábel
Left in the S wall briefly upwards, left above the overhang and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
3
Malý ďábel
Via the SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
2
Malý ďábel
Via the gully in the E wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4+
Malý ďábel
Left of the SE edge up the wall, step left and via the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
2+
Malý ďábel
Via the rib near the SW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
3
Malý ďábel
In the uphill wall, traverse left along the ledge into the valley N wall. Via the crack… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Malý ďábel
In the uphill wall, traverse left along the ledge into the valley N wall, and to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4+
Malý ďábel
On the left uphill side from the rock over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6-
Malý ďábel
In the W wall of the massif, via the right corner crack to the terrace. Freely to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7-/7
Malý ďábel
To the left of 'Optical Illusion', up the overhanging wall via 2 K to the 4th BH of the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
6+/7-
Malý ďábel
Up the overhanging wall to the right of the Chimney via 3 K to the terrace. Freely to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Malý ďábel
In the right part of the W face, diagonally left to the 1st BH and up the wall to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Malý ďábel
From both right and left along the valley edge and higher up from the right up the wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
Malý ďábel
Up the slimy chimney in the center of the W face to the summit. Rock Climbing
9/9+
Malý ďábel
Up the overhanging wall to the right of the valley edge via 2 BH to the 3rd BH of the … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Malý ďábel
Up the left edge of the chimney in the W face briefly, then diagonally left up the wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Malý ďábel
From the balcony, directly up the wall via 2 BH to the ledge at the 4th BH of the … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Malý ďábel
Up the valley edge and left to the 1st BH of 'Tvrdolín'. From the right, up the edge and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Malý ďábel
To the left of the valley edge, up the overhanging iron-rich wall via 4 BH to the rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Malý ďábel
To the left of the 'Tvrdolín' route, up the corner (2 BH) to a ledge and slightly right… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Malý ďábel
Like 'Forbidden Crack' to the pulpit and further up the wall via BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Malý ďábel
To the right of the 'Forbidden Crack' route, up the wall via 4 BH and to the right to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Malý ďábel
From the terrace along a small crack and up the wall (2 BH) to the 3rd BH. Right and up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Malý ďábel
From the 3rd BH of the 'Evasive Maneuver' route, slightly from the left via BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10
Malý ďábel
From the 2nd BH of the 'Viagra' route, directly to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Malý ďábel
To the left on the S terrace via a falconer's crack (using protection from the 'Forbidden… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Malý ďábel
Up the wall to the right of the 'Kolenovrt' route, via 3 BH to the pulpit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Malý ďábel
To the left of the 'Kolenovrt' route's crack, up the wall (2 BH). Diagonally right into… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Malý ďábel
To the right of the 'Chambermaid Swing' route, diagonally right up the wall via 2 BH to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10
Malý ďábel
Briefly up the crack like the 'Chambermaid Swing' route and diagonally left up the wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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