Skip to content
Offline You are offline — showing a saved version of this page.
A new version is available.
< Back to List

Španělský mušky, Malý ďábel 8-/8

Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones, 7. Elbe Valley – left bank, 11. Mordor, Malý ďábel

8-/8

Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Overhang

Last updated 2024-05-11

Grade 8-/8

Climbing season

No climbing restrictions found

  • Open
  • Restricted
  • Unknown
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Community

Help improve this page

No logs or topo yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.

Difficulty
8-/8
Length
20 m
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow Overhang
Location

50.83891, 14.20911

Parking 700 m

50.84315, 14.21647

Up the valley edge and left to the 1st BH of 'Tvrdolín'. From the right, up the edge and crack via 3 BH to the rappel BH.

Discover Španělský mušky, a climbing route rated 8-/8. The total length of this route is 20 meters. Check the latest user reviews, view the topo map below, or join the community to add your own photos for Španělský mušky.

Rules
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Weather forecast

Live 3-day weather forecast for this place and an estimate of whether the rock is dry enough to climb today, updated every hour.

Current conditions

No condition reports in the last 30 days.

No logs yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.

Reviews 0
Have you climbed here?
0 people bookmarked this place
Share this route

Send it to the person you want to climb it with.

WhatsApp Facebook

Nobody to climb with?

Similar routes nearby (around grade 8-/8)
8-/8
Ďáblova stěna
In the middle of the wall, up a slab and a corner (BH) to the balcony (2nd BH). Directly… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Samotářka
In the left part of the wall via 3 bolt hangers. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Ďáblova stěna
To the left of the "Punching Bag" route, up the narrow wall over 2 BH to the rappelling… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Ďáblova stěna
To the right of the "Punching Bag" route, up the wall over 3 BH to the rappelling BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Mistr
To the left of the "Sokolík" route, up the wall over 8 BH to the rappelling BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Baldrick
To the right over an overhang and up the wall via 6 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
Other climbing routes in Malý ďábel
8+/9-
Malý ďábel
Start from the block at the far left of the massif. Up the rounded edge and to the right,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Malý ďábel
From the 2nd BH of the 'Out of Pottenstein' route, diagonally right up the wall via 2 BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Malý ďábel
On the left side of the S face, up the chimney via 2 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
11
Malý ďábel
To the right of the route "East German Correctional" via a crack, wall, and edge over 4…
10
Malý ďábel
Briefly up the crack like the 'Chambermaid Swing' route and diagonally left up the wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Malý ďábel
On the left edge of the S terrace, up a wide crack via K to a recess (rappelling point),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Malý ďábel
To the right of the 'Chambermaid Swing' route, diagonally right up the wall via 2 BH to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Malý ďábel
To the left of the 'Kolenovrt' route's crack, up the wall (2 BH). Diagonally right into… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10
Malý ďábel
From the 2nd BH of the 'Viagra' route, directly to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Malý ďábel
To the left on the S terrace via a falconer's crack (using protection from the 'Forbidden… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay