Skip to content
You are offline — showing a saved version of this page.
A new version is available.
< Back to List

Optický klam, Malý ďábel 7/7+

Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones, 7. Elbe Valley – left bank, 11. Mordor, Malý ďábel

7/7+

Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Overhang

Overview
Suggest changes

Last updated 2024-05-11

Grade 7/7+
Total Time
—
No time duration data available

Climbing season

No climbing restrictions found

  • Open
  • Restricted
  • Unknown
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Community

Help improve this page

No logs or topo yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.

Log ascent Suggest a topo Suggest changes
Difficulty
7/7+
Length
18 m
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow Overhang
Location

50.83891, 14.20911

Navigate Google Mapy

Parking 700 m

50.84315, 14.21647

Google Waze
In the right part of the W face, diagonally left to the 1st BH and up the wall to the 2nd BH. From the left over a small balcony to the 3rd BH and diagonally left to the rappel BH.

Discover Optický klam, a climbing route rated 7/7+. The total length of this route is 18 meters. Check the latest user reviews, view the topo map below, or join the community to add your own photos for Optický klam.

Rules
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Weather forecast
Loading Weather...

Current conditions

No condition reports in the last 30 days.

No logs yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.

Reviews 0
Have you climbed here?
0 people bookmarked this place
Share this route

Send it to the person you want to climb it with.

WhatsApp Facebook

Nobody to climb with?

Find a climbing partner
Find a climbing partner
Author

Petr Laštovička ml.

Richard Litochleb

F. Hochwalder

T. Pacek

R. Štefánek

Similar routes nearby (around grade 7/7+)
7/7+
Džordžo
8 m to the right of the corner between Master and George, 3 m to the left of the small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Tvář
Via the route "Face to Face" above the 3rd BH into the corner. Right up the wall via 3 BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Cimrman
Through the center of the overhanging iron-rich W wall over 2 BHs to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Mistr
Left of the "Crack Chimney" up the wall over 4 BH and further directly to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7/7+
Ďáblova stěna
Up the wall to the left of the "Temporary Acceleration" route via 6 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Tvář
Left up the chimney (BH) and corner to the 2nd BH. Traverse right (3rd BH). Up the corner… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
Other climbing routes in Malý ďábel
8+/9-
Malý ďábel
Start from the block at the far left of the massif. Up the rounded edge and to the right,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Malý ďábel
From the 2nd BH of the 'Out of Pottenstein' route, diagonally right up the wall via 2 BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Malý ďábel
On the left side of the S face, up the chimney via 2 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
11
Malý ďábel
To the right of the route "East German Correctional" via a crack, wall, and edge over 4…
10
Malý ďábel
Briefly up the crack like the 'Chambermaid Swing' route and diagonally left up the wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Malý ďábel
On the left edge of the S terrace, up a wide crack via K to a recess (rappelling point),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Malý ďábel
To the right of the 'Chambermaid Swing' route, diagonally right up the wall via 2 BH to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Malý ďábel
To the left of the 'Kolenovrt' route's crack, up the wall (2 BH). Diagonally right into… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10
Malý ďábel
From the 2nd BH of the 'Viagra' route, directly to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Malý ďábel
To the left on the S terrace via a falconer's crack (using protection from the 'Forbidden… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay