Part of 11. Mordor, Věž Jílového potoka has 17 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2+ to 8+/9-. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Route in shadow, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Fixed belay.
Rules
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
4-
Kocovina
Through the center of the SE face via a hole and a small rib to a ledge, traverse 2m left… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
3
Východní cesta
Right in the plateau wall via the chimney to the balcony and via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4-
Severní převis
Up the chimney of the "East Route" to the plateau and traverse right to the N side of the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4+
Přes převísek
Start under the right part of the upper wall. Up the wall and corner under the overhang,… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5+
Persil Supra
To the right in the E wall, via a smooth wall under the overhang and left via a crack to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Danger +1
6-
Hrazda
From the rock near the SE edge, traverse to the ledge, then right and as "Humus of the… Rock Climbing
5
Palmex
Left in the valley wall, through a hollow diagonally right via BH to the 2nd BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4+
Humus roku
To the right of the SE edge, via a broken crack to the forepeak and as the "East Route"… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
8-/8
Darmo mluvit
To the left of the route "Genocide of Strahov Squirrels" up the wall via 3 BH to rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
R.I.P
To the right of "Palmex" directly via 3 BH to the 2nd BH of "Palmex". Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Temperatura rotpunkt
From the start of the Palmex route, directly via the overhanging wall over 3 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Boční vchod
Completely in the right part of the massif, via the overhanging wall over 2 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7+/8-
Genocida Strahovských veverek
Right in the valley wall via 4 BH to rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
2+
Západní komín
From the plateau side, left into the valley wall and up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4-
Údolní stěna
To the left of the "West Chimney" up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4+
Kapavka
From the base of the valley wall, up the chimney to the E forepeak and as "Northern… Rock Climbing
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