Mordor on the left bank of the Elbe Valley offers almost 180 routes – most on Malý ďábel, with more on Mistr, Ďáblova stěna, Věž Jílového potoka, Brusinková věž and Černý Petr. There are traditional and sport sandstone routes with rings and textile protection, often in the shade; grades from 2 to 11.
Part of 7. Elbe Valley – left bank, 11. Mordor has 177 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Route in shadow, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Textile belay.
Rules
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Malý ďábel Mistr Ďáblova stěna Věž Jílového potoka Brusinková věž Černý Petr Baldrick Diktátor Tvář Zub Krabice na sušenky Cimrman Džordžo Biváček Samotářka Samson
8-/8
Fuckovací panna
To the left of the "Punching Bag" route, up the narrow wall over 2 BH to the rappelling… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Fackovací panák
Along the left edge over 4 BH to the rappelling BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Robotobibok
About 3 m to the right of the "Do hola" route, traverse from the fore-rock to the 1st BH… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8/8+
Do hola
3 m to the right of the small crack, traverse to the 1st BH and directly up the wall over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Peří letí do nebe
From the balcony on the W terrace, briefly to the right through a corner and up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Kupec benátský
8 m to the right of the corner between Master and George, 3 m to the left of the small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Hej, mistře!
On the W terrace from the balcony, left to the 1st BH and up the wall over 2 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Křižovnická škola
On the W terrace from the BH (stance), ascend along the edge via BH directly to the 1st… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Podvlíkačky blaho cítí
From the terrace on the W side from the BH (stance), traverse left into a corner and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Šikana
To the right of the Sokolík route, up the wall over 4 BH to the left, then 5 BH and under… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Sokolík
Through shallow corners in the right part of the wall and further along a prominent rib… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Píchačky
Along the right edge to the 1st K. To the right via a crack, then again along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Majstrštyk
To the left of the "Sokolík" route, up the wall over 8 BH to the rappelling BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Želízko v ohni
Up the center of the wall along the blunt edge over 5 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Pracovní neschopnost
In the left part of the valley wall, via a slanting crack over 4 BH to the end and up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Úkolová mzda
From the small pillar to the left and via a crack to the balcony. Up the wall, via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7+/8-
Mister Boombastig
From the 1st K of the "Iron in the Fire" route to the left, up the wall over 5 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Tvůrčí řešení
Right of the "Crack Chimney" along the blunt edge over 2 BH and hourglass to the ledge.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Tomáškova cesta do světa
From the 2nd BH of the route "Creative Solution", up the wall to the right of the chimney… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Rozum v pytlíku
Left of the "Crack Chimney" up the wall over 4 BH and further directly to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4+
Spárokomín
In the corner between the left pillar and the central wall via a crack, higher up via a… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Levý pilíř
Along the edge of the left pillar over 3 K to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8/8+
Už zase skáču přes kaluže
Left of the edge of the left pillar up the wall over 3 BH and further along the blunt… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
4+
Kapavka
From the base of the valley wall, up the chimney to the E forepeak and as "Northern… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Věčně vlhká
10 m to the right of the corner between Master and George, along the crack over 3 BH to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8/8+
Luj Definé
From the 1st K of the Píchačky route directly along the edge to the 2nd K and further to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3