Mordor on the left bank of the Elbe Valley offers almost 180 routes – most on Malý ďábel, with more on Mistr, Ďáblova stěna, Věž Jílového potoka, Brusinková věž and Černý Petr. There are traditional and sport sandstone routes with rings and textile protection, often in the shade; grades from 2 to 11.
Part of 7. Elbe Valley – left bank, 11. Mordor has 177 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Route in shadow, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Textile belay.
Rules
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Malý ďábel Mistr Ďáblova stěna Věž Jílového potoka Brusinková věž Černý Petr Baldrick Diktátor Tvář Zub Krabice na sušenky Cimrman Džordžo Biváček Samotářka Samson
8/8+
Plni optimismu
To the left of the "Sour Ass" route, up the wall, over an overhang, a corner, an edge and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
4+
Anální temnota
Up the chimney between Dictator and Baldrick via 3 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Exit
From the rappel BH of the "Blind Alley" route, via 2 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Stará záležitost
Between Baldrick and Dictator, up the chimney for a few meters and right to the 1st BH.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Slepá ulička
To the right over an overhang and up the wall via 6 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Vychytralý plán direkt
From 2nd K, via BH directly to 3rd K and further as the original to the rappel K. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
10-/10
Černá zmije - Varianta Hadí oči
From the 5th BH, along the edge directly to the 6th BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Missing Link
To the left of the "Blind Alley" route, up the wall via 7 BH to the 1st BH of the Exit… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Vychytralý plán
Up the middle of the wall under the overhang (sling) and left over it (K) to 2nd K. Right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9/9+
Makumba
Start via the original "Black Adder" route to the 2nd BH, then directly up the wall via… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Vítězný oblouk
Up the corner of the "Black Adder" route and left via a crack (BH), later a fissure (3 BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9+
S chutí do toho !
To the right of the corner between Devil's Wall and Baldrick, via a recess and a short… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9/9+
Černá zmije
In the left part of the wall, up a corner and right via 2 BH to a blunt edge to the 3rd… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Narovnaná šavle
Ascend along the left edge of Baldrick and like the route "With Gusto" to 4 BH, and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Reinkarnace (Tichý pláč)
From the base of the wall, just to the right of the NW edge, up a corner and along cracks… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Tichý pláč
In the middle of the W wall, via a crack to K and directly up the wall (2 BH) to an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Hells Girls
All the way to the right in the W wall, via a chimney and a crack in the corner (4 BH) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Highway to Hell
To the left of the route "Hell's Frolic", along the edge and wall via 3 BH into the route… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Pekelný rej
Up the wall to the left of the "Temporary Acceleration" route via 6 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Dočasné zrychlení
Along the right edge via BH to the ledge (2nd BH). Over the overhang and along the edge… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Vysoká hra
In the lower wall, via a crack and corner to K. Up the wall (BH of the side route) to 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
10-/10
V Číně jedí psy
To the right of the "Hardcore" route, along the edge (BH) and an overhanging wall via 3… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Hardcore
In the left part of the wall through cracks and to the right to the balcony. Up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Inferno
In the middle of the wall, up a slab and a corner (BH) to the balcony (2nd BH). Directly… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9+
Escapade (varianta Hang them High)
From the 3rd BH of the "Hang them High" route to the right, up the overhanging wall over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Čertovina
To the left of the "East Crack" along the edge, later to the left up the wall over 6 BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Východní spára
In the E wall via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
8+/9-
Spartakova cesta do pekla
To the right in the E wall over 4 BH to the rappelling BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Hang them High
In the left valley wall, along the edge (BH) to the balcony. Along the overhanging edge… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Vietnam
To the right of the "Punching Bag" route, up the wall over 3 BH to the rappelling BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2