Part of 11. Mordor, Ďáblova stěna has 18 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 5+ to 10-/10. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Sport Climbing, Textile belay.
Rules
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
5+
Hells Girls
All the way to the right in the W wall, via a chimney and a crack in the corner (4 BH) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Tichý pláč
In the middle of the W wall, via a crack to K and directly up the wall (2 BH) to an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Reinkarnace (Tichý pláč)
From the base of the wall, just to the right of the NW edge, up a corner and along cracks… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Vysoká hra
In the lower wall, via a crack and corner to K. Up the wall (BH of the side route) to 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7+/8-
Highway to Hell
To the left of the route "Hell's Frolic", along the edge and wall via 3 BH into the route… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Pekelný rej
Up the wall to the left of the "Temporary Acceleration" route via 6 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Dočasné zrychlení
Along the right edge via BH to the ledge (2nd BH). Over the overhang and along the edge… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
10-/10
V Číně jedí psy
To the right of the "Hardcore" route, along the edge (BH) and an overhanging wall via 3… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Hardcore
In the left part of the wall through cracks and to the right to the balcony. Up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9+
Escapade (varianta Hang them High)
From the 3rd BH of the "Hang them High" route to the right, up the overhanging wall over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Inferno
In the middle of the wall, up a slab and a corner (BH) to the balcony (2nd BH). Directly… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Čertovina
To the left of the "East Crack" along the edge, later to the left up the wall over 6 BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Hang them High
In the left valley wall, along the edge (BH) to the balcony. Along the overhanging edge… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Východní spára
In the E wall via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
8+/9-
Spartakova cesta do pekla
To the right in the E wall over 4 BH to the rappelling BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Vietnam
To the right of the "Punching Bag" route, up the wall over 3 BH to the rappelling BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Fuckovací panna
To the left of the "Punching Bag" route, up the narrow wall over 2 BH to the rappelling… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Fackovací panák
Along the left edge over 4 BH to the rappelling BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
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