Mordor on the left bank of the Elbe Valley offers almost 180 routes – most on Malý ďábel, with more on Mistr, Ďáblova stěna, Věž Jílového potoka, Brusinková věž and Černý Petr. There are traditional and sport sandstone routes with rings and textile protection, often in the shade; grades from 2 to 11.
Part of 7. Elbe Valley – left bank, 11. Mordor has 177 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Route in shadow, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Textile belay.
Rules
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Malý ďábel Mistr Ďáblova stěna Věž Jílového potoka Brusinková věž Černý Petr Baldrick Diktátor Tvář Zub Krabice na sušenky Cimrman Džordžo Biváček Samotářka Samson
9+
Krottensee
From the 2nd BH of the 'Out of Pottenstein' route, diagonally right up the wall via 2 BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Out of Pottenstein
Start from the block at the far left of the massif. Up the rounded edge and to the right,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Bílá magie
Right in the Z-wall via a short edge (BH) and up the wall via the 2nd BH and hourglass to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Tak akorát
Left of the "Quartet" route via 3 BH to the lower-off BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Černá magie
Up the corner via the 1st BH to a ledge. Left via the overhanging edge (2nd BH) and up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Pravá magie
Like "Black Magic" to the ledge. Right to the BH and up the wall to the 3rd BH of the … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Kvarteto
Right edge of the Z-wall via 3 BH to the lower-off BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Veselý teátr
Left in the Z-wall via 3 BH directly to the 3rd BH of the 'Hard End' route and along it… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Balkónová scéna
Center of the Z-wall via 3 BH to the lower-off BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Welcome to Mordor
On the valley side, right of the corner, in the V-shaped wall via a crack over BH and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Těžkej konec
Completely to the left in the Z-wall via 2 BH and diagonally right to the 3rd BH. Up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Hop nebo trop
In the valley wall, briefly up the corner and traverse left to the 1st BH. Then along the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Poctivá robota
In the valley wall, up the corner, then a narrow crack/chimney and wall into a hole, and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9/9+
Vodní svět
From the 2nd BH of the "El Niño" route, left and via 6 BH to the lower-off BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
El Niňo
Center of the valley wall, left of "Hop or Drop" via 5 BH to the lower-off BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Rapl
Between 'Face' and 'Black Peter' on the pillar via a crack (BH), later an edge (BH) and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Rapl přímá varianta
From the last BH of the 'Rapl' route, straight up the wall to the summit to the lower-off… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
První vráska
Right overhanging edge via 6 BH to the lower-off BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Balrog
To the left on the valley side via a wide crack (1st BH) up to a wedged stone. Right (2nd… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
The Nose
Start via the 'Dirty Girl' route over 4 BH and then right into the corner below a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Tváří v tvář
Left up the chimney (BH) and corner to the 2nd BH. Traverse right (3rd BH). Up the corner… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Pleťová maska
Via the route "Face to Face" above the 3rd BH into the corner. Right up the wall via 3 BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9/9+
Skurutí běh
Center of the wall via 6 BH to the lower-off BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Království smíchu
To the right of the route 'Eyes for Crying' up the wall via 3 K to an overgrown ledge (to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Kyselá prdel
Center of the wall via 8 BH to the belay ring K. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Oči pro pláč
Between the routes "Kingdom of Laughter" and "Sour Ass" on the wall via BH, 4 K, and BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Špinavá holka
Completely to the right in the valley wall, up the corner to a ledge and traverse left.…
10-/10
Útěk
From the 5th BH of the "Weakest, You're Fired" route, diagonally right up the wall via 2… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-/10
Nejslabší, máte padáka
From the 1st BH of the "Old Affair" route, right beyond the edge into the lower wall to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Kompromit
Start via the "Full of Optimism" route to the 1st BH, then traverse left along the edge… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3