Mordor on the left bank of the Elbe Valley offers almost 180 routes – most on Malý ďábel, with more on Mistr, Ďáblova stěna, Věž Jílového potoka, Brusinková věž and Černý Petr. There are traditional and sport sandstone routes with rings and textile protection, often in the shade; grades from 2 to 11.
Part of 7. Elbe Valley – left bank, 11. Mordor has 177 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Route in shadow, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Textile belay.
Rules
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Malý ďábel Mistr Ďáblova stěna Věž Jílového potoka Brusinková věž Černý Petr Baldrick Diktátor Tvář Zub Krabice na sušenky Cimrman Džordžo Biváček Samotářka Samson
8-/8
Drcená láska
Center of the overhanging wall via 2 BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Uzený žiletky
Right part of the wall via 2 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Chronická erekce
Left part of the overhanging wall via 2 BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9/9+
Minutenman
Up the center of the valley (S) wall via 2 BH (from the 1st BH slightly to the right) to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Brusinkové morfo
To the right of the Verči den route, up the wall via 2 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Verči den
To the right of the Minuteman route, up the wall via 3 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4-
Severní spára
To the right of the NE edge via a crack and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Houpací minecraft
In the left part of the valley wall by the crack, 2 BH to rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
3
Údolní komín
From the W traverse left into the chimney in the N face and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7/7+
Muž s koženou brašnou
To the left of Minutenman, up the valley wall via 2 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
3
Levá jižní cesta
Through the left part of the S wall diagonally left. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4+
Kterýkoliv kámen zvedneš
From the hole on the SW corner upwards over the overhang and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4-
Pravá jižní cesta
Through the center of the S wall over the overhang and up the wall to the right to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4-
Mokrý komín
Via the chimney in the W wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4-
Východní stěnka
In the center of the E wall between the “Old Route” and the “East Crack” to the ledge and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Jihovýchodní hrana
Over the overhang from the left to the SE edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
2+
Východní spára
In the E wall via the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4-
Pravá jižní cesta - Varianta
Right in the S wall over the overhang and up the wall to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4+
Stará cesta
Right in the uphill wall via the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Muž sukni
To the right of the route “To Our Nations” along the edge over K and BH and along the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Našim národům
Through the center of the overhanging iron-rich W wall over 2 BHs to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Dobytí severního pólu
In the left part of the W wall over 3 BHs to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7-/7
Nervy v kýblu
Through the right part of the wall (2 BHs) and traverse left to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Veselý kašpárkův hrobeček
Through the center of the NE wall to the ledge (1st BH) and over the overhang (2nd BH).… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-/10
Nuda v Labáku
In the left part of the wall over BHs to the rappel BH of the route “Nerves in a bucket”. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Lijavec
In the valley wall over 4 BHs to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
Vosí cesta
Left in the S wall briefly upwards, left above the overhang and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4+
Žihadlo
Left of the SE edge up the wall, step left and via the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1