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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
1
Bažináč
Via the right part of the SE face to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Bažináč
Via the wall to a prominent hole and to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Brontosaurus
Up the eastern edge to the overhang, left to the crack and up it. Danger
7
Široká věž
From the southeast via a ring. Rock Climbing
7
Široká věž
Up the chimney below the overhang and up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Brontosaurus
Up the face below the rappel to the summit. Danger
4
Brontosaurus
Up the north face and the crack. Rock Climbing Spare Route
6-
Široká věž
To the right of the north crack, up the small flake. Rock Climbing
3
Široká věž
From the southwest via the corner to the balcony and to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Široká věž
From the north or south to the western edge (hour-glass) and up the overhanging crack. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Široká věž
Up the north face to the crack and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Hříbě
From the SW via the chimney to the high saddle and up the W face to the summit.
Přeskok
Hříbě
By jumping from the NE fore-peak.
7-/7
Hříbě
Left up the crack to the end, then left through the notch to the ring. Directly up the…
6
Kobylí věž
From the southwest fore-peak, traverse to the crack in the south face and up it to the… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Kobylí věž
By jumping from the massif onto the belly and by the "Old Route".
Přeskok
Kobylí věž
By jumping from the west onto the salty belly of the NW edge.
8
Kobylí věž
To the right of the North Crack route, up the face via a ring to the edge and by the Old… Rock Climbing
6
Kobylí věž
From the chimney between Kobyla and Kobylí Tower, left to the crack and up it to the…
7
Čertík
In the left part of the south face to the mouth of the crack and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Kobylí věž
From the saddle between the rim and the tower along the western edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Kobylí věž
In the north face, traverse along the ledge to the crack (ring) and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Čertík
Traverse into the center of the south face and up it (ring), higher slightly right to the… Rock Climbing
6
Čertík
From the north, traverse left along the ledge to the eastern edge and up it. Rock Climbing
6
Čertík
Up the left part of the north face along the recess. Rock Climbing
7
Čertík
3
Čertík
Along the western edge. Rock Climbing
7
Vřesová věž
By opposition between the massif and the tower to the summit.
4
Čertík
Up the right part of the north face and right.
4
Čertík

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