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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
4
Čertík
6
Vřesová věž
Up the overhanging west face, traverse right to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Vřesová věž
Up the Northeast face via the hour-glass to the ring, by posture and up the face.
6
Vřesová věž
Up the SE face into the cave, ascend over the overhang and up the face to the hour-glass,…
2
Borová věž
From Ferda. Rock Climbing
6
Borová věž
Through the crumbly north corner and the crack to the ring.
6
Borová věž
Up the crumbly north face and via a pinnacle to the ring and through the crack to the… Rock Climbing
5
Borová věž
From the east through the chimney to the block, over the overhang and through the crack. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Borová věž
Up the north face over the ring to the ledge, traverse right and up the pinnacle (second… Rock Climbing
6-
Borová věž
Along the right part of the north face and right behind the edge (ring), up the west face… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Borová věž
Up the wall (1st ring) to the pinnacle of the "North Face", through it to the end right …
7-/7
Borová věž
Up the overhanging west face over the ring to the small balcony (slings) and up the crack… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Borová věž
In the right part of the north face along the northwest edge (left of Rekreační cesta)… Rock Climbing
2
Ferda
From the east through the chimney. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Ferda
From the summit of Borová věž (Pine Tower).
Přeskok
Ferda
From the balcony of Borová to the pre-summit. Rock Climbing
3
Borová věž
Through the southwest corner. Rock Climbing
5
Borová věž
From the southwest with a high step into the crack and up the corner crack to the summit.
6-
Ferda
Along the right part of the north face under the overhang to the western edge (ring) and… Rock Climbing
8
Ferda
Up the wall (ring) directly to the summit.
6
Ferda
From the right to the edge (ring) and directly to the ring of Kmitací hrana (Oscillating… Rock Climbing
5
Ferda
Rock Climbing
8
Ferda
Up the middle of the wall to the ring, right up to the edge and along it to the summit.
3
Ferda
Through the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Šibal
Along the sloping edge to the ledge in the north face, left to the east edge and along it. Rock Climbing
5
Šibal
To the right in the plateau wall n. v.
6
Šibal
From the ledge in the north face, left to the east edge and along it. Rock Climbing
5
Šibal
Through the chimney to the S. small tower and up the smooth small wall to the summit.
8
Šibal
Up the narrow wall, higher up its right edge (ring) to the S. small tower and to the…
7/7+
Šibal
Crack in the valley wall into the cave and to the ring. Left to the "Operetta" ring and…

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