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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
4
Srpnová
Descent through the gorge, left and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Srpnová
Left part of the small northern face. Rock Climbing
6
Květová
In the right part of the southern face along the edge up to the ring and directly to the… Rock Climbing
6
Květová
From the ring on the Autumn Route, traverse right and up to the ring on the Windy Route,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Květová
Along the northern edge to the ring, double crack to the ledge and face to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Květová
In the left part of the southern face directly to the ring and along the gully to the… Rock Climbing
6
Květová
Middle of the NE face slightly left under the hole and to the ring. From there through… Rock Climbing
3
Květová
From the west into the corner, through it up to the ledge and slightly right to the summit Rock Climbing
6
Květová
From the ring of the "Beer Diet" route diagonally left to the edge. Along it and left… Rock Climbing
8
Květová
Middle of the upper face to the ring, from the right back to the middle of the face and… Rock Climbing
5
Květová
Edge left of "N. c." Rock Climbing
3
Vystrčená
Left side of the SE edge to the small crack and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Vystrčená
Rock Climbing
5
Vystrčená
Western edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Vystrčená
From the south to a low balcony and using falcon-like holds to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Vystrčená
Right part of the SW face to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Dvojitá
Via the left valley edge to the ring and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Dvojitá
From the ring of the "Rain Crack" left onto the edge and via that to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Dvojitá
Through the center of the south face, right to the edge and directly to the ring. Left… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Dvojitá
From the NW chimney to the edge and via that over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Dvojitá
Rock Climbing
6-
Dvojitá
Directly up the west edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Dvojitá
In the left part of the SW face onto a sloping ledge, right to the ring and via the wall… Rock Climbing
5
Dvojitá
Via the SE crack over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Vyhlídka
Rock Climbing
6-
Vyhlídka
Via the wall diagonally right to the ring and via the wall along the edge (2nd ring) to… Rock Climbing
6-
Vyhlídka
Via the west edge below the overhang (protection), up and right to the spire. Up, left to… Rock Climbing
3
Vyhlídka
Rock Climbing
3
Vyhlídka
Rock Climbing
4
Vyhlídka
Via the crack over the ring up to the saddle, through the chimney, or via the small crack… Rock Climbing

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