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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
8
Král
Through the middle of the valley wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Král
From the ledge directly along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Král
N. c. " to the west edge, traverse left and along the "Variant of the Brotherhood Route"… Rock Climbing
8
Král
Along the NW wall over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Král
Along the SE wall to the second notch in the eastern edge (ring around the corner),… Rock Climbing
6
Král
Along the SE wall over the ring to the ledge of "Bosá cesta" and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Král
From the plateau side, step across to the ledge, from it to the west edge and along it to… Rock Climbing
7
Král
From the north, up the wall to the edge to the 1st ring, along the edge over the 2nd ring… Rock Climbing
7
Žába
From SE traverse to the valley edge and along it over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Žába
Rock Climbing
5
Žába
From SE by a small buttress, left and up the wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Král
Step across to the ledge, right to the valley edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Žába
From NW diagonally up to the ring, directly to the ledge (right, hours) and up the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Žába
Along the right valley edge under the small overhang, left to the 1st ring, from it… Rock Climbing
2
Žába
From the plateau side diagonally left into the NE wall and to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Žába
Rock Climbing
5
Zobák
In the plateau wall, crack into the hole, left and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Zobák
From the edge. Rock Climbing
6
Zobák
In the valley wall, crack to the ledge to the ring. Up, hand over hand along the ledge to… Rock Climbing
6
Zobák
Directly up the wall to the abseil ring. Rock Climbing
5
Zobák
From the boulder diagonally left to the west edge, along it to the ledge and left to the… Rock Climbing
3
Zobák
By opposition between the tower and the edge to the ring and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Kačaba
Through the middle of the NE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Kačaba
Through the middle of the SW wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Kačaba
Through the middle of the valley wall left to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Kačaba
Between the edge and the tower chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Kačaba
By descending from the edge and jumping to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kačaba
In the SW wall diagonally left over the overhang and to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kačaba
From the NE wall and along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Umrlec
Through the crack. Rock Climbing

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