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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
8
Pařát
To the right of the corner, up the wall via 2 rings to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pařát
Via a crack, wall and falcon's nest to the ring and up to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Pařát
Left edge of the SW face to the ring. Up the wall directly to the 2nd ring of the … Rock Climbing
6
Pařát
Along ledges into a hole and over a ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Pařát
Follow the "Father's Shadow" route to the 1st ring, from there left along the notch to… Rock Climbing
6
Pařát
In the left part of the SW face along the falcon's nests to the 1st ring. Directly up to… Rock Climbing
6
Pařát
To the right of the crack, up the pillar via 2 rings to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Pařát
To the right of the "Heavenly Riders" route, directly over the overhang and up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Pařát
In the SW face, to the right of the "Father's Shadow" route, over 3 rings to the pine… Rock Climbing
6
Pařát
Follow the "Patrolman Mancuso" route over the overhang to the 1st ring. Right to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
1
Pařát
Over boulders into the SE corner. Gullies into the saddle between the peaks and a short… Rock Climbing
7
Mamut
From the NE up the middle of the overhang, later slightly left onto the ledge. Traverse… Rock Climbing
7
Mamut
Along the left part of the NE face over the ring directly to the 2nd ring of the "Holy… Rock Climbing
6
Mamut
From the W left into the chimney between the fore-summit and the tower. Up onto the ledge… Rock Climbing
6
Mamut
Along the small crack in the SE edge upwards, slightly left to the hourglass on "N. C."… Rock Climbing
7
Mamut
From the small cave under the E edge along the small crack to the 1st ring. Right onto… Rock Climbing
6
Mamut
Along the edge left of the chimney to the traverse of the "Valley Route". Along it to the… Rock Climbing
2
Mamut
Via the chimney between the tower and the SW fore-summit, just below its summit … Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Mamut
Along the East edge directly to the 2nd ring of the "Holy Route". Rock Climbing
5
Mamut
From the SW onto the fore-summit. With a high step into the tunnel, traverse to the… Rock Climbing
5
Indián
Up the face into the hole to the hourglass, right onto the ledge and via the sloping face. Rock Climbing
8
Indián
From the fore-summit diagonally right to the large hourglass and from there left onto the… Rock Climbing
1
Indián
From the East onto the small fore-summit and from there up the right part of the face. Rock Climbing
6
Indián
Via the overhanging corner (1st ring) up to the 2nd ring. From there left into the small… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Indián
Up the face diagonally left (1st ring) to the 2nd ring and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Indián
Up the face to the sloping ledge and left up to the ring (unprotected). Left to the crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Indián
Small columns and the left crack in the corner. Rock Climbing
6
Indián
Via the route "Peace Pipe" to the ring, left into the small gully and along it over the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Indián
Along the W edge over 2 rings to the 2nd ring of the route "Path of Courage" and along it… Rock Climbing
9
Indián
Over the overhang into the crack, along it to its end and right to the ring. Up the… Rock Climbing

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