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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
5
Zub
East edge (hourglass) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Zub
Rock Climbing
5
Zub
From the boulder left into the north face and diagonally left to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Daliborka
Along the falcon-like section to the fore-summit and diagonally up to the ring. Right… Rock Climbing
6
Daliborka
From the fore-summit step across into the wall and using small holds traverse right into… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Daliborka
From the fore-summit left to the end of a small crack, over the overhang (clock) and up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Daliborka
Along a narrow crack and through the corner under the overhang and right to the ring. Up… Rock Climbing
6
Daliborka
To the 1st ring of "Kouřovky" straight up the wall. Rock Climbing
?
Daliborka
Right of the route "Brus, brutus, brutatus", ring. Rock Climbing
6-
Daliborka
Along a crack under the characteristic bulge, left to a sloping crack and further to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Daliborka
Along the "South Route" into a hollow, right up the wall over a ring and clocks to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Daliborka
Along a zigzagging crack in the SW face to the fore-summit. (Original start of Ant Route.)
5
Daliborka
From the NW via a chimney and gully to the fore-summit. Up the structured wall diagonally… Rock Climbing
9
Daliborka
Along the "Smoke Wall" under the bulge and further along the crack to the 1st ring. Right… Rock Climbing
6-
Daliborka
Through a chimney, traverse left to the falcon-like sections and along them to the ring.… Rock Climbing
8
Daliborka
Along the edge and the falcon-like section to the ring. Up to the large clocks on the … Rock Climbing
5
Daliborka
Up the wall left of the S edge into a hollow under the overhang, left into an open crack… Rock Climbing
6
Daliborka
Along a small crack and up the wall to the large clocks. Over the overhang to the smaller… Rock Climbing
9/9+
Daliborka
From the NE up the wall over 3 rings to a small balcony under the 2nd ring of the "Smoke… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
10
Daliborka
In the left part of the NE face along a crack to the 1st ring, diagonally left (2nd ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Daliborka
Like "Whirlwind Route" to the fore-summit, from its right part first straight, later… Rock Climbing
9
Daliborka
From the pass along a ledge traverse left and up the wall over 4 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Kniha
Along a crack to the 1st ring. Up the smooth wall left to a balcony in the NW face (clock… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Kniha
Up a prominent corner under the overhang (clock) and traverse right to the clocks (aid… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Kniha
From the ledge up the wall over 3 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7
Kniha
From the S in the friable wall along cracks to a crack. Rock Climbing
8
Kniha
Over the overhang and up the wall over 2 rings to a ledge (clock). Straight along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Kniha
Along the "South Crack" route to a horizontal ledge and over the overhang up the friable… Rock Climbing
5
Kniha
From the E to the fore-summit below the NE face. Descend diagonally right to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kniha
Along a crack in the NC fall line to the end and up the wall briefly left to the… Rock Climbing

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