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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
8-/8
Kniha
Through the corner and over the overhang to the 1st ring. Up the wall to the 2nd ring,… Rock Climbing
7
Kniha
From the E to the fore-summit. Straight onto a horizontal ledge, under the overhang left… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Kniha
Center of the wall onto the balcony. Along the crack and a notch under the overhang and… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Kniha
Up the wall over the 1st ring and a hole onto a ledge (clock) and from the left onto the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kniha
Along a crack to the fore-summit and left to the 1st ring. Up the wall to the 2nd ring… Rock Climbing
7/7+
List
From the 1st ring of "Victory" straight and diagonally left into the "Valley Wall" and… Rock Climbing
8
List
Left of the "Victory" route from the left, or from the right to the ring and directly… Rock Climbing
6
List
Via a crack below the small saddle and traverse right to the hole in the center of the SW… Rock Climbing
7/7+
List
Up the middle of the wall to the 1st ring. Straight, later diagonally right to the edge … Rock Climbing
6-
List
Up the friable wall and via a notch to the 1st ring. Rock Climbing
6-
List
Via a diagonal notch into the small saddle between "Větrník" and "List". In the NE wall… Rock Climbing
6
List
From the saddle along the W edge to a deep notch and over a boulder to the right into the… Rock Climbing
6-
List
From the start of "Victory" to the right to the ring. Right and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
List
Notches diagonally left to the saddle. From the start of the "N. C." traverse directly… Rock Climbing
6
Větrník
From the edge, traverse into the valley wall and up below the overhang to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing
8
List
Via the "Huascaran" route to the saddle. Left via a notch in "N. C." and further up over… Rock Climbing
7
Větrník
From NE via a notch, higher up the wall over a ring directly to the foresummit. Rock Climbing
7
Větrník
From SE, left of the tunnel between Větrník and List, over a friable overhang to the big… Rock Climbing
7
Větrník
Over the overhang to the 1st ring, along the crack into the niche (2nd ring) and left… Rock Climbing
6
Větrník
Left of the W edge via the left crack to the ledge and via a crack in the corner to the… Rock Climbing
0
Větrník
From the 2nd ring of Porcal's Wall" straight up the hollow to the summit." Rock Climbing
6-
Větrník
Traverse to the center of the valley wall and over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Větrník
Along the edge over a ring to the foresummit. Rock Climbing
4
Větrník
Along the sloping ledge up to the saddle between Větrník and List. Via an open chimney… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Větrník
From SW from the path up the smooth wall over small holes to the ledge and to the ring.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Větrník
From the ledge via a crack to the rim and left behind the edge. Up the wall over a ring… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Větrník
Left of the W edge via the right crack to the ledge. Over the overhang into the crack and… Rock Climbing
8
Větrník
Via the small pillar to the 1st ring, further into the notches and to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Větrník
Up the wall below the rappel station over three rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Větrník
Along the edge, diagonally left and to the ring. Slightly left to the summit. Rock Climbing

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