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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
6-
Větrník
via the "N. C." variant to the small balcony on the right wall, small pillars upwards to… Rock Climbing
5
Větrník
In the right part of the NW wall via a crack into the widening and diagonally left along… Rock Climbing
2
Orloj
From the hourglass along the ledge in the NW wall to the N edge and up a small wall to… Rock Climbing
5
Větrník
From the N along the double crack to a small balcony and via a chimney to the small… Rock Climbing
8
Orloj
Left of "Hands" up the wall over a ring to the edge (hourglass), right into a hole and to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Orloj
Diagonally up to the big hourglass and via a friable small wall into the hollow. Left … Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Orloj
Up the wall into a small cave, from there via a crack to the "astronomical clock" and "N.… Rock Climbing
8
Orloj
Via a crack below the overhang, traverse left (ring) to the ledge with a pine tree.… Rock Climbing
9
Orloj
In the right part of the wall from the corner to the left over three rings and directly … Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Orloj
From the center of the SE wall diagonally right up to the sub-summit ledge in the NE wall… Rock Climbing
2
Orloj
Up to the ledge and diagonally left upwards to the hourglass on the SW side and straight… Rock Climbing
5
Orloj
Along a shallow crack in the middle of the SE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Orloj
From the "Hale and Pace" ring to the right to the 2nd ring and from the left to the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Orloj
Through the middle of the wall from the boulder to the right onto an indistinct edge and… Rock Climbing
8
Orloj
From the slope to the right onto the E ridge. Traverse right (hourglass) and directly up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Ještěr
Through the center of the pillar via 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Ještěr
Up the friable wall to the small pillar and via it to the ring. Slightly right to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Ještěr
Up the prominent corner below the overhang and to the right via a crack over the ring to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Ještěr
Left of the route "Wooden Surprise" via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Ještěr
Up the wall along the edge via 2 rings slightly to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Ještěr
Along the left edge of the pillar up to the 1st ring. Along the edge to the foresummit,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Ještěr
Diagonally right over the overhang to the 1st ring. Up to the 2nd ring and onto the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Sarkofág
From the 2nd bolt, traverse 3 m left and up "Autumn Route" to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Sarkofág
Up the middle of the valley wall along the small cracks (1st bolt) to the 2nd bolt and … Rock Climbing
0
Sarkofág
Corner crack over the bolt to the dark Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Sarkofág
Along the shallow groove to the right to the end (1st bolt on the left). Right behind the… Rock Climbing
9
Sarkofág
Up the middle of the upland wall to the 1st bolt. (Standing) to the 2nd bolt and straight… Rock Climbing
6
Sarkofág
From the start of "Dream Route" up the wall over the bolt and slings to the ledge. Like … Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Sarkofág
From the right to the edge, up it to the horizontal groove, right and up the deep holes… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Sarkofág
Near the right valley edge to the 1st bolt. Slightly left and up into the holes, right to… Rock Climbing

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