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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
6
Sokol
Along the crack in the SE wall into the hole, traverse right to the 1st ring. Right into…
7/7+
Sokol
Via the route 'Valley Wall' up to the 2nd K. Right along the small pillar beside the… Rock Climbing
6
Sokol
Through the center of the NE wall over two rings to the ledge and left to the 2nd ring.
6
Sokol
In the fall line of the 2nd ring, straight up the overhanging wall along the small… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5
Sokol
Up the small pillar and left to the 1st ring. Up the slab to the right and along the…
6+/7-
Sokol
Like N. c. under the overhang, diagonally left to the small balcony at the edge and left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Sokol
Up the crack to the ring.
5
Sokol
(By standing) into the wall and right along it to the small balcony to the ring. Up the…
6-
Šapitó
To the right of the route 'Memory of Ohryz', up the wall to the 1st K. Slightly right to… Rock Climbing
5+
Šapitó
Up the right crack against the upper wall of Krotitel over K to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Šapitó
To the right of the route 'Lightning from a Clear Sky', up the wall over 2 K to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Šapitó
In the right part of the massif, up the edge to the right of the chimney to K and left to… Rock Climbing
5
Šapitó
To the left of Berta's crack, up the wall over K to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Šapitó
Up the left crack against the upper wall of Krotitel to K, over the overhang and along… Rock Climbing
6-
Šapitó
To the right of the Bidlovačka route, straight up the wall over K to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Šapitó
Up the prominent crack in the middle part of the massif directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Šapitó
To the right of the wide chimney in the left part of the massif, straight up the wall… Rock Climbing
5+
Šapitó
Up the prominent pillar in the left part of the massif directly over K to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Šapitó
To the right of Kratochvíle briefly through the chimney and up the wall to K. Along the… Rock Climbing
4+
Šapitó
In the left part of the massif, up the crack in the left chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Krotitel
From the 1st ring left onto the edge and behind it to the fore-rock. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Krotitel
Along the notch at the edge to the 1st ring, slightly right to the 2nd ring and straight… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2+
Krotitel
, (JPK)". Up the small chimney from J to the fore-rock and N. c. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Krotitel
Up the valley chimney for about 5 m, left into the wall, through a shallow indentation… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Krotitel
Through the chimney, right to the crack, along it (ring) to the ledge and to the summit.
Přeskok
Krotitel
By jumping from the edge of the massif. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4-
Krotitel
Through a narrow chimney in the left part of the valley wall to the summit.
6-
Krotitel
Through the center of the valley wall to the hourglass and traverse left into the crack.
6-
Krotitel
From the block at the edge briefly upwards, left into the valley wall and along it to the…
2
Krotitel
Up the small wall and corner to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1

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