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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
7-/7
Lvíček
From the right upper edge below the overhang, right to the 1st ring. Straight up the wall… Rock Climbing
5+
Lvíček
Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Lvíček
Along the dihedral to the ring, right to the pillar to the ring (additionally placed for…
7/7+
Lvíček
Up the wall to the left (ring) to the dihedral, through it to the ledge and diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4-
Lvíček
From the balcony through the small corner to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6-
Lvíček
Along the edge (two rings) to the ledge.
3
Lvíček
Through the chimney in the south wall to the summit Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Lvíček
South wall over two rings to the summit. (Approach possible via crack-VIIb). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4-
Lvíček
Up the wall to the right of the edge to the small crack, through it to the balcony and…
Přeskok
Lvíček
By jumping from the edge. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4+
Lvíček
Briefly up the wall, left to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Lvíček
Up the wall and through the corner. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Lvíček
By stepping from the block into the wall and left to the ring. Up the wall to the small…
4-
Lvíček
Through the dihedral to the ledge and through the chimney to the summit.
2+
Lvíček
Through the chimney in the north wall to the summit.
6+/7-
Kočka
Along the dihedral, higher up the wall (three rings) to the summit.
6
Kočka
Start on the NE edge, right to the NW edge, along it to the ledge, back to the NE edge…
7/7+
Kočka
From the right part of the SW wall, traverse left on the ledge to the valley edge. Along… Rock Climbing
6-
Kočka
Along the edge to the ring in the East wall and straight to the summit.
6+/7-
Kočka
Along the crack below the overhang (1st ring), from the left over the overhang, up the…
5
Podhradí
Through a short crack into the wall, traverse left over the ring below the narrow crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Podhradí
Through the chimney to its widening, step over to the edge and along it over two rings to…
6
Podhradí
Through the chimney to the ledge, left to the notch and through it to the 1st and 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Podhradí
Between the routes Bořík na Slováči and Opékání prasátek, up the wall and through the… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Skalní hrad
From the 2nd ring further to the ring of the NE edge and by this route to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
9/9+
Skalní hrad
To the right of the NE edge (six rings), higher up along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Skalní hrad
Along the NE edge halfway through the traverse and up to the ring. Up the wall to the…
6
Skalní hrad
From the 1st ring through the chimney, higher up through the crack over the ring to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Skalní hrad
Through the crack between the edge and the tower to the ledge, traverse right to the edge…
6-
Skalní hrad
Through the crack, higher up through the chimney to the 1st ring. Right to the 2nd ring,…

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