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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
6
Kovadlina
From the south over the overhang to the ridge. Rock Climbing
2
Kovadlina
Along the northwest ridge. Rock Climbing
2
Komínová věž
Through the left chimney. Rock Climbing
5
Komínová věž
Along the northwest edge over the balcony to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Komínová věž
Up the center of the western left pillar over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Komínová věž
Through a narrow chimney, higher up through a crack. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Komínová věž
Up the center of the left pillar to the 1st ring, then two meters along the SE edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Komínová věž
From the east through the crack. Rock Climbing
6
Komínová věž
Through the crack to the balcony and left up the wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Komínová věž
Along the edge to the balcony and along the edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Komínová věž
From the balcony from the north along the crack. Rock Climbing
2
Komínová věž
From the north into the small cave and through the internal chimney. Rock Climbing
3
Komínová věž
To the left of the North Left route via a corner crack. Rock Climbing
2
Komínová věž
To the left of the North route along the crack. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Nalezenec
From the west. Rock Climbing
6
Nalezenec
From the north along the crack. Rock Climbing
4
Nalezenec
From the right part of the north face obliquely left upwards. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Nalezenec
Up the right part of the wall to the ring and slightly left along the cracks to the… Rock Climbing
7
Nalezenec
To the left along the southwest edge. Rock Climbing
3
Nalezenec
By opposition between the tower and the massif. Rock Climbing
8
Nalezenec
Up the left part of the wall (ring), higher along the edge at the SW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Nalezenec
In the south face diagonally right to the ring and along the edge. Rock Climbing
6-
Nalezenec
Up the center of the east face. Rock Climbing
2
Nalezenec
To the right of the northeast edge along the small crack. Rock Climbing
3
Zídka
Through a crack in the W wall. Rock Climbing
3
Zídka
Through the center of the south face to the hourglass, left to the edge and to the summit… Rock Climbing
4
Vilém
Up the wall from the West over the hourglass. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Poustevník
From the west over the overhang to the ring and along the edge. Rock Climbing
6
Poustevník
From the ledge in the South face traverse into the valley wall and over the ring to the… Rock Climbing
1
Posed
Small wall from the West. Rock Climbing

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