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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
7
Hlavní věž - jižní předskalí
Up a small crack and wall (or diagonally from left) under the overhang, over it along the… Rock Climbing
6
Hlavní věž - jižní předskalí
Up the crack and slab to the ring, over the overhang to the left to the pine tree and up… Rock Climbing
6-
Hlavní věž - jižní předskalí
From the ledge right behind the edge into the South wall of the pillar and along the left… Rock Climbing
6
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
From the 2nd ring along the edge. Rock Climbing
5
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Up the corner to the balcony and up the wall into the recess. Over the overhang (piton)… Rock Climbing
6
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Along the edge to the left of the chimney, higher up diagonally left and back to the edge… Rock Climbing
5
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
From the 1st ring along the edge to the sloping plateau in the East wall and up the… Rock Climbing
4
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
From the South along the crack into the recess and through it over the overhanging block… Rock Climbing
6
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
From the balcony above the tunnel, step across to the inclined wall and up it to the… Rock Climbing
6
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Up the wall opposite Samotář to the small balcony to the 1st ring, over the overhang… Rock Climbing
5
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Up the crack to the balcony (loop), up the crack into the recess (loop) and through the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
To the right of route no. 16, diagonally right and up to the 1st ring. Over a friable… Rock Climbing
9
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
From the chimney via the small pillar's wall over a ring onto the small pillar, via route… Rock Climbing
6
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Via the overhanging crack (piton) to its end and diagonally right to the piton. Up the… Rock Climbing
6-
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Via the left crack over the ring to the ledge and diagonally right to the piton. Rock Climbing
4
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
From the E via a crack and chimney to the fore-summit and to the bridge with a ring, or… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Via the crack to its end and over steps to the ring. Via an overhanging crack over a… Rock Climbing
6
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Through the depression over the ring to its end, traverse right to the horse and over it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
To the right of the chimney, via an overhanging wall along cracks (piton) to the ring.… Rock Climbing
7
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
From the 2nd ring, right and through the depression of route no. 12 variation. Rock Climbing
6-
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Through the depression to the right below the overhang (protection), via a small pinnacle… Rock Climbing
7
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Through the depression directly to the ring, over the overhang along the double crack. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
To the right of the SW corner, via an overhang to the ring, right upwards via the wall… Rock Climbing
5
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Start below the NW edge. Over 2 overhangs to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Via the North wall over steps, higher up diagonally left into a crack and along it to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Střední věž - jižní předskalí
Up the wall and gully to the ring. Directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Věž Milana Černého
In the S wall through the corner (piton) and traverse right to the edge. Into the corner… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8
Věž Milana Černého
Up the wall diagonally left to the ring. Along the edge and the overhanging crack into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7
Věž Milana Černého
To the left of the SW edge by a thin crack, higher up the wall to the small pillar and up… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
5
Věž Milana Černého
Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall

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