Skip to content
Offline You are offline — showing a saved version of this page.
A new version is available.
Back to list

Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
6
Kavčí věž (Kotlík)
From the W edge diagonally left upwards to the ring. Through the left half of the SW face… Rock Climbing
5
Galeon
From the ledge under the overhang of the SW face into the left crack. Along it to the… Rock Climbing
3
Brána
In the right part of the SE face, from the passage, onto the wedged rock block. From its… Rock Climbing
5
Brána
To the left of the chimney onto the boulder. From there, by shallow crack to the ledge… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5
Brána
By "Schuck's Route" to the boulder. By shallow crack to the ledge and along the crack… Rock Climbing
6
Brána
From the 1st ring of "Lengáč's Wall" straight up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Brána
Opposite the Galeon, up a smooth corner to the ledge and by "Schuck's Route" to the… Rock Climbing
7
Ottovy věže
Up the center of the SW face of the main tower to the gully. Here left and along the… Rock Climbing
6
Ottovy věže
From the gorge via a wide crack over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Zero
*** ATTENTION ***In some routes by Petr Prachtel, the rings may be of dubious quality or… Rock Climbing
3
Zero
*** ATTENTION ***In some routes by Petr Prachtel, the rings may be of dubious quality or… Rock Climbing
3
Zelenáč (Na břízkách)
From the gorge between Harry's Tower and Zelenáč, diagonally right to the S fore-rock. Up… Rock Climbing
2
Zelenáč (Na břízkách)
From the slope, traverse through the SE face into the chimney gorge and through it to the… Rock Climbing
5
Zelenáč (Na břízkách)
From the "Corner Route" diagonally right upwards and up the E face to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Zelenáč (Na břízkách)
Rock Climbing
1
Harryho věžička
From the slope, traverse across the SE face of Zelenáč into the chimney gorge and through… Rock Climbing
3
Manon
Along the slab to the right into the lower wall to the fore-summit. Through a crack in… Rock Climbing
4
Trůn
From the chimney, left along the ledges to the W edge (ring). Up the receding wall to the… Rock Climbing
5
Blatník
From the wedged boulder on "N. c." we cross to the NW side. Along the grassy ledge left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Blatník
Along the S edge up to the ring. Left beyond the edge up to the ledge below the summit.…
7
Blatník
Up the center of the valley wall on rounded holds, higher along the crack to the 1st ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Blatník
From the "N. c." balcony, left around the edge to the center of the SE wall. From a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Anebo
Via the chimney to the East buttress. Traverse into the wall and up over two small caves.… Rock Climbing
4
Perníková
Via the SE face into the niche at the East arête. Over the overhang diagonally left to… Rock Climbing
3
Fifanka
Through the middle of the NW face to the last notch below the summit. Right to the ring… Rock Climbing
4
Fifanka
Along the South arête to a ledge and traverse left on it to the ring "N. c.". Rock Climbing
2
Tři sedla - severní věž
From the small cave in the south face, left through the chimney to the balcony and up the… Rock Climbing
2
Tři sedla - střední věž
Through the chimney to the S. tower and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Tři sedla - jižní věž
Through the chimney between the South and Middle Towers. Rock Climbing
6-
Velká kvočna (Biskup)
In the center of the S wall, diagonally right upwards, up the smooth wall to the ring. By… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

Nobody is looking for a partner here yet — be the first.

Find a climbing partner