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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
5+
Malá kvočna
From the stream at the SE corner via a ramp transitioning higher into a sloping crack … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Malá kvočna
Via the East Ramp route 3m and fine wall to the 1st and 2nd ring, by standing over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Malá kvočna
Overhanging chimney in the right part of the East face into a hollow and easily to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Malá kvočna
Under the overhanging NE edge to a small crack, with a stance in a sling into the small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
El Toro
Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Malá skautská věž
Via the crack over the overhang to the second balcony and upwards. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Táborská věž
Along the edge over two rings to the summit Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Táborská věž
From the ring straight up. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Hláska
To the left of the route, the East Left Crack along the edge over four rings. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
10
Hláska
Up the valley north face via five rings. Rock Climbing
6
Hakenova věž
Right of the 'Polabian Lowland' route, up the face over three rings to the fifth ring of… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Obelisk
Up the left part of the north face over the overhang (ring) to the northeast edge and… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Krkavčí skály - severozápadní věž
Via the Evening Route to the first ring, right into the valley face and up over two rings. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Krkavčí skály - západní věž
Directly to the 1st ring of the "April Route" (unsecured), up it into the notch and right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Krkavčí skály - západní věž
From the north by cracks over ledges into the corner in the north face. Rock Climbing
6
Křižkovského věžička
Through the middle of the right half of the south face. Rock Climbing
4
Fičus
From the SW via the gully (ring) and the wall (hourglasses) to the summit. The ring can… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Velká hradba
Up the strongly overhanging wall (ring) to the 2nd ring. Diagonally right to the edge … Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Průchody
Through a crack along the northern edge under the overhang to the ring. Directly along… Rock Climbing
4
Průchody
Through the chimney, right over the pyrite to the ledge and through the wall over the… Rock Climbing
6
Průchody
From the south via a zigzag double crack to the ring and diagonally right to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Průchody
From the east right behind the edge and through the hole to the ring. Over the ledges to… Rock Climbing
7
Průchody
Via the right crack in the NE face into the hole (protection) and to the ring. Via the… Rock Climbing
4
Podrážka
Through the center of the NE wall over a small overhang and slightly right to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Podrážka
Rock Climbing
2
Podrážka
From the boulder into the SW wall, right along the traverse to its end and directly to… Rock Climbing
4
Kobercová skála
Rock Climbing
6
Krius
Up the eastern edge to the crack (ring) and through it to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Nevěrnice
From the northern edge along the bench into the NE face to the crack and through it to… Rock Climbing
2
Anonymní věžička
Along the SE edge. Rock Climbing

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