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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
7/7+
Buben
Blunt West edge over 2 rings to the ledge (abseil ring). Rock Climbing
7
Flašinet
From the plateau side along the small pillar and indentation to the ring. Directly to the… Rock Climbing
3
Flašinetář
In the right part of the S face, through a bell-shaped enclosed chimney to the ledge.… Rock Climbing
6
Chroustík
Left plateau edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Chroustík
From the plateau side, along the crack to a shallow gutter. Left and up the stepped wall. Rock Climbing
7
Rokelská stěna
Through the crack to the fore-rock, then further left via a disappearing crack in the… Rock Climbing
2
Kostelík
From the W via the corner to the pre-summit and via a narrow chimney. Rock Climbing
6
Kostelík
From the south, under the overhang, diagonally left over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
?
Kostelík
Ring in the wall to the right of the "Path of Unbelievers". Rock Climbing
6
Kostelík
From the valley via a crack (ring) to the pre-summit and via a small wall. Rock Climbing
5
Kostelík
From the western (plateau) edge via the SW face. Rock Climbing
7
Kostelík
From the E via a small wall, higher up via arête to the hourglass and right to the ring.… Rock Climbing
3
Kostelík
In the S wall via a small crack and a narrow chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Kostelík
Via a short wall left of "N. c." to the pre-summit. Rock Climbing
6
Stráž
From the N edge left into the crack and up to the ledge. Up the wall (ring), higher along… Rock Climbing
9
Stráž
From the 1st ring of "Rybitví" directly along the edge to the ring, up and left under the… Rock Climbing
3
Stráž
Through a bell-shaped closed chimney from the plateau side. Rock Climbing
6-
Stráž
Via the overgrown corner to the ledge, right below the wall and along the gully (ring) to… Rock Climbing
8
Stráž
Along the W edge (1st ring) to the ledge, along it left to the edge to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing
5
Stráž
Via the crack to the balcony, right to the edge and up the wall along it. Rock Climbing
?
Krákorka
Ring on the edge from the passage. Rock Climbing
6
Stráž
From the route via the crack over the 1st ring, slightly left to the 2nd ring and… Rock Climbing
4
Krákorka
Through the middle of the NW wall. Rock Climbing
4
Krákorka
Along the W edge. Rock Climbing
8
Krákorka
In the valley wall (from Štěňata) up the wall over 3 rings to the fore-rock and over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Štěně
Up the middle of the N wall to the ring. Left to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Štěně
From the boulder via the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Štěně
In the right part of the N wall into a slanting crack, through it into a hole and left to… Rock Climbing
6-
Štěně
Left of the "Tail" route via opposition, higher up via arête and left to the 1st ring, up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
?
Nedobytná
Narrow pillar, 2 rings. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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