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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
2
Truhla
From NE briefly upwards diagonally to the right. Rock Climbing Laid wall
3
Náprstek
Small wall below the abseil. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Truhla
Small crack in the N wall to the ring and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Truhla
Along the plateau edge. Rock Climbing Overhang
4
Náprstek
By stepping over from Truhla and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Sestřičky
Through the chimney between the middle and left tower. Rock Climbing
2
Náprstek
Small wall from SE diagonally to the right. Rock Climbing
3
Sestřičky
From the valley up a short wall into the chimney and up it to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Sestřičky
Through the crack in the right part of the left tower. Rock Climbing
5
Sestřičky
Middle of the east face of the left tower directly to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Sestřičky
Right edge of the middle tower. Rock Climbing
2
Rychlík
Middle of the plateau wall. Rock Climbing
6-
Zvěd
Up the right south (plateau) edge to the edge of the small balcony and to the ring of "N.… Rock Climbing
?
Zvěd
Near the left valley edge into the cavity and diagonally right up the overhanging wall to… Rock Climbing
6-
Zvěd
Right part of the plateau wall to the balcony to the ring. Along the small crack under… Rock Climbing
6
Zvěd
Up the "Valley Face" to its 1st ring. Up the face directly over the 2nd ring to the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Zvěd
Like "Bráškova c. " into the hole (protection) traverse left behind the edge and via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Zvěd
Up the left half of the plateau face along the shallow crack to the ring. Slightly right… Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Hlavatá skála
From the SW fore-summit, up the face over the ring to the gully, through it to the end… Rock Climbing
8
Hlavatá skála
Up the left part of the NE face to the 1st ring, up the face and cracks to the… Rock Climbing
7
Hlavatá skála
In the right part of the north face, below the crack to the ring, up the crack to the 2nd… Rock Climbing
4
Válečník
From the gorge via a squeeze and traverse left to the ring. Through the gully into the… Rock Climbing
3
Válečník
Along the notch in the right part of the W face to the crack and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Pandrhola
From the NW, up the face. Rock Climbing
2
Bota
From the north onto the instep" and diagonally right to the summit. " Rock Climbing
6
Prokletá
From the SE, up the narrow crack to the balcony and right via the chimney (sling) to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Děravec
Up the center of the plateau face to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Děravec
From the NE edge, left into the face and to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Prokletá
Rock Climbing
6-
Vodník
From the south, traverse left via the sloping notch to the 1st ring. Up the wall into the… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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