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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
5+
El miska
Via Quakers to the children on the ledge, then right through the gully (ring) and along…
4-
El miska
Short edge over the hourglass and ring to the fore-summit.
6-
Zpěvačka
Along the left or right crack over the bulges diagonally left to the balcony, traverse…
6
Zpěvačka
Up 3 m through the crack, traverse right to the center of the wall and up to the ring. Up…
5+
Pamětní věž
Through the middle of the E wall over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Pamětní věž
From the tower gap, traverse to the NE edge, and over it via 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Pamětní věž
From the ring of the Anniversary Route, left to the edge to the 2nd ring and directly to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2+
Šutr
Up the center of the small wall. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Pig
Up the wall over the ring.
5+
Pig
Edge (ring).
2
Šutr
Over wedged boulders to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2+
Pig
By small crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4+
Pig
Up the small wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4-
Pig
Up the small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Žuk
Up the center of the wall to the ring, right into a narrow chimney and directly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2+
Žuk
Through a narrow chimney to the fore-rock and by stepping over to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Žuk
By indentation to the ring and by crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Žuk
Along the edge over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4-
Olšinská věžička
Via a crack in the left part of the N wall. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Olšinská věžička
Through the center of the N wall to a ring bolt, directly into a wide crack and along it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Olšinská věžička
In the N wall to the right via a wide chimney. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2
Olšinská věžička
Up the E wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
5+
Věžička u rozcestí
Up the edge, up the wall to the right (ring bolt) to a gully and along it to the summit.
6+/7-
Modrá planeta
Up the middle of the pillar directly to the 1st ring. Diagonally to the edge (2nd ring)…
5+
Modrá planeta
From the ring of the Mexico route, via the crack left to the top.
6
Modrá planeta
Via the corner crack to the ledge and traverse left along it to the ring. Directly over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Tajuplný měsíc
Through the crack to the end and over a small overhang to the 1st ring. Up the wall to…
8+/9-
Modrá planeta
Straight up the wall over three rings to the top.
8/8+
Tajuplný měsíc
Up the wall to the 1st ring. Through the crack and over the overhang to the 2nd ring,…
7+/8-
Trojitá věž
From the 2nd R left to the edge into the crack, along it to the end and up the wall to…

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