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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
5+
Nenitověž
Directly over the overhang to the ring. Slightly right into the crack and up it to the…
6-
Nenitověž
Up the left part of the wall to the shelf and over a ring to the top (n.t. - meaning 'na…
6-
Komáří masív
Diagonally left to the 1st ring, up to the crack and up it (2nd ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Rovné skály
Via the crack chimney.
8/8+
Rovné skály
Up the small pinnacle and the face under the overhang to the ring. Through the wide crack…
6
Rovné skály
Up the overhanging crack to a grassy ledge. Through the crack over the cave diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Rovné skály
Up the twin crack in the corner (ring) to the summit.
6
Rovné skály
Up the corner for about 10 m, traverse right into the center of the face and up it over…
6-
Rovné skály
Up the chimney to the block, left into the crack and up it (ring - additionally placed)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Rovné skály
From the corner, traverse left to the small pinnacle and from there to the 1st ring. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Rovné skály
From the gorge, up the left part of the loose wall to the ring. Up into the ledge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Zmijovka
Through the middle of the southern slab (2 rings) to the summit.
6
Zmijovka
From the start of the route "Eyes Full of Tears" briefly straight, higher up under the…
6
Zmijovka
Through the left part of the southern slab (ring) to the summit.
2
Věžička u Máni
Along the eastern edge to the slab. At its lower edge, traverse right to the N edge and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2
Věžička u Máni
Along the eastern edge into the slab and through the middle of the slab to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2
Věžička u Máni
From the south, through the right part of the S wall to the large hourglass and along the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Přeskakové věže
From the north (from the corridor between the North Tower and the Jumping Towers) along… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Přeskakové věže
From the block, ascend the right part of the friable W wall to the ring. Via the gully… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
3
Přeskakové věže
Via a crack from the S branch of the inner chimney to the ledge and a traverse/overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Přeskakové věže
Via the chimney to the N or E summit. With a very wide spread (!!!), an overhang, and the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Přeskakové věže
From the branching of the inner chimney (from NE) via the chimney to the terrace. About 4… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Přeskakové věže
From NW via the crack to the N summit. Traverse into the Inner Chimney and up it to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Přeskakové věže
From the south (left of the south crack) up the friable wall along the fissure to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Drban
Approach from the left onto the bench and up the wall through holes, higher up diagonally…
7
Galapágy
To the left of the path "I have no idea" by the left valley edge and wall along the edge… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
3
Šourkova věž
TO THE RIGHT OF THE "DEVIL'S HANDPRINT" VIA CRACK UNDER OVERHANG, OVER IT VIA CHIMNEY AND… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall +1
6
Šourek
Through the SW corner (ring) to the balcony, then up the wall over the 2nd ring and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8+/9-
Výr
To the right of the left valley edge, directly up the overhanging wall into the ledge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Odeon
Along the ledge via a notch to the 1st ring and further via an arête over 2 rings to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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