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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
2
Sasanka
By opposition and wall along the groove to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Sasanka
Up the wall to the circle and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Rumiště
Rock Climbing
6
Rozhledna
Along the crack (slings) and up the wall to the 1st ring. Up, through the small corner… Rock Climbing
5
Rozporkův kámen
In the right part of the north face to a sloping shelf. Along it left, up a small crack… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
8
Rozhledna
From the shelf up the center of the wall through a hole to a ledge and up to another… Rock Climbing
8
Rozhledna
Follow the "Turbulence" route to the second crack (sling), traverse left, up to the ledge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Rozhledna
From the saddle in the ledge right to the valley edge and up it (sling, hour-glass) to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Rozhledna
Up the open corner and directly up the wall to the 1st ring. Diagonally left into the… Rock Climbing
6-
Rozhledna
From the shelf up the small pillar in the corner to the ledge and right to the pine tree.… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Rozhledna
From the shelf up the small pillar to the end (sling) and directly up the wall (ring) to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Rozhledna
From the shelf traverse left in the ledge to the edge and directly over two rings to the… Rock Climbing
6
Rozhledna
From the corner with a high step onto the ledge (slings) and along the crack (sling) to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Rozhledna
Up the edge to the shelf, traverse right and up the wall to the ring. From the left into… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Rohová
Up the wall to the right to the edge and to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Rogallo
Up the narrow wall of the small pillar directly (hour-glass) to the ring. Up, traverse… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Rohová
Up the center of the plateau wall through small pillar notches and right to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Rezavá stěna
Up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Rezavá stěna
Along the small pillar notch diagonally right and up to the 1st ring. Diagonally left to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Rezavá stěna
Up the wall to the cracks, along them (sling) and further up the wall to the ring. Up to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Rezavá stěna
Up the green corner and left up the wall to the 1st and 2nd rings. From the left onto the… Rock Climbing
7
Rezavá stěna
Up the crack to the left of the corner, higher up the corner (ring) into the widening and… Rock Climbing
8
Rezavá stěna
From the left to the edge and up it to the 1st ring. Up to the small pillar corner,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Rezavá stěna
Up the small pillar in the right wall of the chimney (ring) to just below the small… Rock Climbing
?
Rexík
2 rings. Rock Climbing
?
Rexík
Ring. Rock Climbing
6
Rarášek
Through the middle of the wall over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Rarášek
In the middle of the valley wall over the overhang to the ledge and left (on the edge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Rarášek
Through the middle of the wall to the ring, right to the edge and by it to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Rarášek
By the left upper/plateau edge over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing

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