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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
7/7+
Pláž
From the right to the ledge and through the center of the overhanging valley wall over 4… Rock Climbing
6-
Pláž
Along the edge, higher up the wall via two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Placatá věž
Along the crack (slings) from the left up the wall, higher up diagonally left to the… Rock Climbing
2
Placatá věž
Rock Climbing
6-
Placatá věž
In the center of the small wall directly to the ring, slightly from the left and… Rock Climbing
6
Petris
Up the right valley edge (slings) over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Peklo
Up the crack in the edge (slings) to the ledge, traverse left along the ledge under the… Rock Climbing
?
Past
Ring. Rock Climbing
6
Past
Up the broken corner to the ring of the "Scraped Knees" route. Up the overhanging wall to… Rock Climbing
6
Past
Up the wall to a narrow crack and through it (ring) into the chimney. Through the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Paprsek
Through the center of the wall along a small chimney to the ring. Directly, higher up… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Palisáda
Over the overhang and up the wall along ledges to the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd ring. Up to the… Rock Climbing
8
Palisáda
Up the right part of the wall directly (two rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Palisáda
Through a narrow chimney from the gorge. Rock Climbing
6-
Palisáda
Up the center of the pillar to the ring and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Palisáda
Up the overhanging wall diagonally right to the edge and up the leaning wall to the ring.… Rock Climbing
6-
Palisáda
Briefly bridging in the chimney, then left and up to the ring. Diagonally left to the… Rock Climbing
?
Palcát
2 rings. Rock Climbing
4
Palcát
Traverse right and up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Palcát
From the chimney right to the edge, along it, higher up the wall via two rings to the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Palcát
From the left valley edge traverse right into the center of the wall and directly to the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Palcát
Up the wall diagonally right to the edge and along it to below the overhang to the 1st… Rock Climbing
6
Ohniště
Directly to the ring, up to the delicate small hawks and diagonally left to the edge to… Rock Climbing
8
Ohniště
Directly up the wall over two rings and a thread hole to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Ohniště
Up the wall to the ring, left along the overhanging small hawk diagonally right to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Oáza
Along the broken crack and up the wall to the ring. Directly to the start of the crack … Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Oáza
Up the valley wall along the edge to the 1st ring. Along the crack to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing
6
Oáza
In the right part of the valley wall along the notch to the 1st ring. Directly up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Neobjevená
Up the wall to the hawk crack and along it to the ring. Directly to the balcony and from… Rock Climbing
2
Neobjevená
From E to the balcony and along the overhanging edge to the summit. Rock Climbing

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