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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
6
Neobjevená
Up the wall to the hawk crack and along it to the ring. Directly to the balcony and from… Rock Climbing
6-
Neobjevená
Through the overhang into the wide crack and up it (slings), higher right along the edge… Rock Climbing
4
Náhradní věž
Along the right plateau edge to the lower summit. Up the wall to the main summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
2
Náhradní věž
Through the chimney from NE to the false summit and up the small wall. Rock Climbing
5
Mravenčí hora
Rock Climbing
2
Náhradní věž
Along the eastern edge to the summit Rock Climbing
3
Mravenčí hora
Over the overhang and up to the summit. Rock Climbing
?
Lucifer
Via the right part of the valley wall. Rock Climbing
6-
Malá stěna
From the slope along the ledge traverse right, directly (ring) to the last ledge, right… Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Maják
Ring. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Luna
Up the chimney to the fore-summit, step across into the wall to the beginning of the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Lodivod
Up the blunt edge of the left pillar directly (loops) under the small overhang, slightly… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Lodivod
Up the valley wall of the right pillar along the crack to the ledge and along the right… Rock Climbing
8
Lodivod
Start on the edge as route "Tropical Storm" and from the 2nd loop to the right under the… Rock Climbing
5
Lodivod
Up the corner and to the right into the wall to the ring. Traverse right along the ledges… Rock Climbing
6
Loď
From the corner, traverse diagonally left under the small pinnacle and via it to the ring… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Loď
Up the crack of the route "Krajinově vděčná" (Grateful to the Landscape) for about 4m and… Rock Climbing
6-
Loď
Up the left crack to the end and up the wall to the ring. Directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Loď
Up the distinctive broken crack over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Lidožrout
Via the left part of the overhanging wall over four rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Lipová
From the platform, overhang and along the edge. Rock Climbing
2
Lipová
Along the right edge of the southern, smooth wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Labuť
Up the blunt edge directly to the ring and along the edge (2nd ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Labuť
From the corner briefly by stemming and up the wall to the right to the ring. Over the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Kýl
Up the open corner over two rings to the ledge (loops to the right in the rim) and up the… Rock Climbing
6
Kýl
Up the wall to the right of the overhang briefly, traverse left into the pillar wall and… Rock Climbing
6
Krakonoš
Along the edge to the ring and directly over the ledge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Krakonoš
Up the wall along the edge via flakes to the ring. Along the small corner to the ledge,… Rock Climbing
6
Krakonoš
Up the crack (loops) to the ring, up to the 2nd ring and directly up the middle of the… Rock Climbing
2
Krahulík
From the west via a small wall recess to the left into the saddle and to the summit. Rock Climbing

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