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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
2
Ploštice
Rock Climbing
3
Kmotr
From the plateau side up the wall somewhat to the right. Rock Climbing
1
Hospodská věž
By opposition and wall out of the crevice. Rock Climbing
1
Hospodská věž
From N to the crevice, onto the boulder and up the wall to the left tower. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Pyrit (Poupě)
From the SE, by stepping across to the fore-summit and "N. c. " to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Hospodská věž
Middle of the plateau wall and left. Rock Climbing
3
Pyrit (Poupě)
Up the small face from the NE to the fore-summit and "N. c. " to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Prosincová věž
From the right edge of the south face, traverse right into the crack and up it to the… Rock Climbing
4
Pyrit (Poupě)
From the south, from the gap between the tower and the fore-summit via a squeeze, higher… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Hlavatá skála
From the fore-summit, through the holes to the ring. Up the face directly over the 2nd… Rock Climbing
3
Prosincová věž
From the center of the south face, up to the ledge, then briefly left and directly up the… Rock Climbing
7
Pyrit (Poupě)
Along the south edge to the ledge, traverse left (ring) to the hourglasses and directly… Rock Climbing
2
Pyrit (Poupě)
Up the small plateau face. Rock Climbing
6
Pyrit (Poupě)
From the north, between the tower and the fore-summit via the chimney, higher up the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Hlavatá skála
From the hourglass, up the face directly (2nd ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Hlavatá skála
Follow "Viva la Figa" to the 1st ring. Diagonally right to the edge to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing
6
Válečník
Start left of the fall line of the "Holed Route" ring. Using pockets over the overhang… Rock Climbing
6
Hlavatá skála
Up the narrow plateau face through the hole to the ring and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Hlavatá skála
Left of the "North Crack", along the small crack into the hole and to the ring. From the… Rock Climbing
7
Válečník
Up the NE face with difficulty to the sloping small pinnacle, through it and over the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Válečník
From the gorge via a squeeze, higher up the wall over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Válečník
Left of "N. c. ", up the indistinct small pinnacle (sling) and directly. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Válečník
Left of "N. c. ", up the face over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Dařbuján
From the N, along the right part of the plateau face. Rock Climbing
2
Kumpáni
From the east into the chimney between the towers, to the pre-summit and then step over… Rock Climbing
6
Válečník
Along the north edge for a few meters, then left, higher up the notch back to the edge… Rock Climbing
2
Dařbuján
From the plateau side and along the E edge. Rock Climbing
7
Válečník
Like "Variant of the Holed Route" up, left into the hollow and through it under the… Rock Climbing
6
Pohádková
From the gorge, up the hand crack over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Rokytnická věž
From the east, along the crack, briefly left and diagonally right over the hourglass to… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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