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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
5
Nepodařená věž
From the plateau side diagonally right along the notches and up the wall to the ring.… Rock Climbing
3
Mikulášská věž (Podzimní věž)
From the plateau, crawl into a small cave, by opposition and higher up through the NW… Rock Climbing
4
Mikulášská věž (Podzimní věž)
In the right part of the plateau face to a thin small ridge, by that and up the wall… Rock Climbing
6
Mikulášská věž (Podzimní věž)
From the plateau side 2m down, horizontal traverse along the SE face to the east edge … Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Mikulášská věž (Podzimní věž)
From the fore-rock in the right part of the valley face. Up the wall and along the small… Rock Climbing
2
Mikulášská věž (Podzimní věž)
Shallow chimney in the left part of the S face along the small ridge notch. Rock Climbing
3
Nepodařená věž
From the east onto the north fore-rock and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Domestik
From the west by crack and higher up by chimney to the saddle, by opposition to the small… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Náhodná
Left part of the S face. Rock Climbing
3
Tachovanka
Wall from the left into the summit crack Rock Climbing
2
Tachovanka
Plateau face of the central pillar Rock Climbing
1
Náhodná
From the S along the small ridge. Rock Climbing
1
Tachovanka
By chimney from the south Rock Climbing
2
Tachovanka
plateau face of the left pillar Rock Climbing
1
Deklík
Plateau face from the S. Rock Climbing
1
Tachovanka
By chimney from the NW Rock Climbing
2
Tachovanka
Wide crack to the summit Rock Climbing
1
Deklík
Rock Climbing
8
Rohový pilíř
To the right of the south edge, through cracks to the ring. Briefly left, up to the rib,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Lemrouch
By chimney from the east Rock Climbing
1
Lemrouch
From the boulder in the NE face Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Lemrouch
South face along indistinct cracks Rock Climbing
1
Tachovanka
from NW along shelves diagonally left to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Lemrouch
By chimney from the west Rock Climbing
2
Lemrouch
NE face along the excavation Rock Climbing
6-
Žabinec
Hand crack to the shelf and a smooth pull-up directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Želejovské věže
In the right part of the north face to the shelf, along the edge of the pillar (clock)… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Želejovské věže
Crack in the north face, higher up the chimney to the north summit. Rock Climbing
5
Želejovské věže
From the right to the west edge of the central pillar and along it over several clocks to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Zimbabwe
Through the corner and over the belly to the 1st ring. Directly over the 2nd ring to the… Rock Climbing

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