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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
6
Severní pól
Through the crack over the overhang and along the prominent chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Skokanská věžička
Up the middle of the SW face to the plateau and via steps to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Skokanská věžička
Step across to the edge, along it (hour-glasses) to the plateau below the summit and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Salvátor Dalí
Via the chimneys of the route "Intrauterine Memories" right into the corner and through… Rock Climbing
8
Salvátor Dalí
Up the wall, higher up right behind the edge to the circle. Along the edge and wall (2nd… Rock Climbing
8
Salvátor Dalí
Directly up the wall to the 1st and 2nd circle. Through the middle of the pillar to the… Rock Climbing
8
Salvátor Dalí
Up the wall along the edge and along the edge to the circle. Along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Salvátor Dalí
Up the wall, via the diagonal chimney and crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Salvátor Dalí
Through the chimney (sling on the right) and crack to the circle. Through a narrow crack … Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Salvátor Dalí
Up the wall into the crack and through it (slings) to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Salvátor Dalí
Through the crack and fissure along the edge to the shelf and right through the crack of… Rock Climbing
6
Salvátor Dalí
Up the middle of the wall to the 1st and 2nd ring. Up to the ledge (two hour-glasses) and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Rozpůlená stěna
Diagonally right to the blunt edge and up the friable wall to the ring. Up, slightly from… Rock Climbing
7
Salto mortale
Through the chimney to the ledge, step across to the wall and left onto the shelf on the… Rock Climbing
6
Salto mortale
From the circle diagonally left and up the overgrown wall easily to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Rozpůlená stěna
Up the wall directly to the ring, up to the ledge, left to the small pillar (protection)… Rock Climbing
6
Rozpůlená stěna
Directly to the 1st ring, slightly from the left and directly to the 2nd ring. Up to the… Rock Climbing
8
Rozpůlená stěna
Up the center of the small pillar over the ring and hour-glass to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Salto mortale
Along the edge over two rings and up the overgrown wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Rozpůlená stěna
Up the delicate wall along the edge to the 1st and 2nd rings and up the edge to the… Rock Climbing
6
Rozpůlená stěna
Up the wall directly to the ring and directly to the summit (below the summit also from… Rock Climbing
6
Rozpůlená stěna
Up the crack to the bifurcation and up the left branch to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Rozporkův kámen
From the plateau side traverse to the NE edge and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Rozcestí
Up the overhanging wall over three rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Ropušák
Up the wall directly to the ring. Up the crack directly, higher left and along the… Rock Climbing
6
Ropušák
Up a short crack (sling) and diagonally right to the ring. Up the slabby wall under the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Ropušák
Up the crack to the end and diagonally right over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Ropušák
Up the edge (ring) to the ledge and up the wall left to a sloping shelf. Up the sloping… Rock Climbing
4
Rexík
From the gorge up the crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Rexík
Up the wall along the edge and a sloping slab to the right to the 1st ring. Overhang to… Rock Climbing

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