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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
6-
Pravobok
By the left corner to the step and up overgrown terrain to the saddle. To the ledge,… Rock Climbing
6
Pravobok
By the left wall of the pillar to the small balcony (sling) and from the left to the ring… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Pomlázková stěna
By the left edge over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Pekari
Up the wall over three rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Pekari
From the block along the edge, higher up left through the crack (sling) to the ring.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Petris
Rock Climbing
5
Petris
Up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Pekari
Up the small chimney (slings) and the wall to the ring. Small chimneys to the 2nd ring… Rock Climbing
6
Paprsek
Up the broken wall directly to the ring. Diagonally right to the ring of the "Center… Rock Climbing
1
Paprsek
Over the drop and up a short edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Paprsek
Along the overhanging small crack (sling) to the 1st ring. Over the overhang, along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Paprsek
Directly to the 1st ring. Along the blunt edge to the ledge and to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing
5
Pan Pécuchet
Up the small wall at the highest point via holes directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Paluba
Via the "Bone Shaker" route to the 2nd ring. Diagonally right to the crack and along it … Rock Climbing
6
Paluba
From the 1st ring of the "Kermar Kencil" route, traverse diagonally right to the edge and… Rock Climbing
6
Pantomima
Along the edge over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Paluba
From the small cave (sling) directly to the 1st and 2nd ring. Left and directly up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Pan Pécuchet
Along the small crack over the hourglasses into the chimney and up it. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Pantomima
Diagonally left to the 1st ring and directly over the 2nd ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Paluba
Up broken corners under the overhang (slings), right to the 1st and through the center of… Rock Climbing
7
Ošumělá
Overhanging crack from the north above the overhang, short traverse left and by a notch… Rock Climbing
8
Ošumělá
Diagonally left to the edge and under the overhang (sling). Along the crack (ring) to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Ošumělá
Directly to the ring and up the broken wall to the 2nd ring. Directly, slightly right to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Ošumělá
On the south face to a broken step, difficult via a small chimney to an overgrown ledge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Osada
Directly to the ring... Rock Climbing
6
Osada
Along the wall near the edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Ošumělá
By bridging between the towers to the saddle and up the small wall. Rock Climbing
6-
Nová Evropa
Along the edge to the 1st and 2nd rings and directly (thread hole) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Ngorongoro
Up the center of the wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Nová Evropa
Along the crack and up the wall to the 1st ring. Directly up the wall (2nd and 3rd rings)… Rock Climbing

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