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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
5
Albion
Southwest edge to the ledge and up the wall over the Bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Střízlík
From the block by jumping to the ledge on the "North Route" and along it to the summit.
7
Střízlík
South arête to the summit
6
Střízlík
Up the face to the ledge and via the right arête to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Střízlík
Via the northeast arête, higher via the southeast arête and the south face. Rock Climbing
6
Střízlík
Via the southeast arête. Rock Climbing
3
Pechova věž
Rock Climbing
6
Pechova věž
Via the northeast arête over the ring. Rock Climbing
6
Pechova věž
From the ring, to the right. Rock Climbing
6
Pechova věž
Through the center of the NW face via 'sokolík' diagonally left to the ring, left to the… Rock Climbing
3
Pechova věž
Via the arête to the left of the Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Pechova věž
From the west, traverse left to the crack and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Pechova věž
Through the center of the face to the summit Rock Climbing
3
Pechova věž
Rock Climbing
3
Pechova věž
Via the right crack and chimney. Rock Climbing
2
Pečírkova věž
From the west through the chimney to the boulder, over it to the plateau, and from there… Rock Climbing
9
Pečírkova věž
From the west, descend left into the north face and up to the first ring. Via 'sokolíky'… Rock Climbing
6-
Pečírkova věž
From the chimney of the Old Route into the crack in the south face and along it to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Pechova věž
From the saddle over the SW arête into the crack and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Pečírkova věž
From the first ring of the Southern Right Route, via the crack and from there directly up… Rock Climbing
6
Pečírkova věž
To the left of the Tydýt route, via the face over the 'hodinky' to the southern fore-rock… Rock Climbing
6
Pečírkova věž
Via the west crack and face to the ring, then up the northwest arête. Rock Climbing
6-
Pečírkova věž
From the plateau in the south face to the ring. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Pečírkova věž
Diagonally right up the south face to the east arête and via the 'sokolík' to the ring,… Rock Climbing
7
Pečírkova věž
6
Pečírkova věž
Through the center of the south face of the southern fore-rock to the plateau and via the… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Pečírkova věž
Along the left valley arête over the overhang, above it traverse right over a ring into a… Rock Climbing
2
Pečírkova věž
From the east, along the south face to the plateau and from there via the south face to… Rock Climbing
3
Termitiště - jižní věž
From the north from the small tower, traverse into the northern wall, then left and along… Rock Climbing
2
Termitiště - jižní věž
From the south, via a short crack to the pre-summit and up the small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing

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