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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
Přeskok
Termitiště - severní věž
From the southern tower to the small tower and over boulders. Rock Climbing
6-
Termitiště - severní věž
Through the chimney between the towers, then left into the NE wall and along it to the…
1
Termitiště - jižní věž
5
Termitiště - jižní věž
Up the wall of the right pillar to the summit
6
Termitiště - jižní věž
In the right part of the S wall via a crack and chimney
9
Termitiště - severní věž
From the gorge between the towers, up the wall to a ledge and over a ring to the left and…
2
Termitiště - jižní věž
6-
Termitiště - jižní věž
Right along the southwest edge to the balcony (ring), higher up the wall over the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
9
Termitiště - severní věž
From the gap between the towers behind the Green Tower to the ring of the route "Koťas's… Rock Climbing
6
Termitiště - jižní věž
From the north from a large boulder via a crack, higher up via a chimney. Rock Climbing
2
Termitiště - severní věž
Through the wide chimney
6
Termitiště - severní věž
Through the left western chimney narrowing into a crack to a small cave under a large… Rock Climbing
1
Termitiště - severní věž
Through the chimney from the left or right to the wedged block and up the chimney.
4
Termitiště - severní věž
3
Veterinář
Along the southeast edge over the hourglasses. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Veterinář
Along the northeast edge over the hourglasses. Rock Climbing
7
Veterinář
Along the NE edge
6
Veterinář
Through the resistant face over two rings. Rock Climbing
3
Veterinář
Through the chimney, between the forepeak and the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Veterinář
Through the left part of the south face (sling) to the southern forepeak. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Veterinář
Through the right part of the wall upwards.
1
Veterinář
From S through the chimney to the summit Rock Climbing
3
Veterinář
Through the right part of the south face to the southern forepeak. Rock Climbing
6
Veterinář
From the ring diagonally right to the edge and along it to the summit.
6
Veterinář
Through the W face to the ring.
6
Veterinář
Through the right part of the N face to the right to the edge (ring) and along it to the…
5
Veterinář
Along the southwest edge left of the west chimney. Rock Climbing
9
Bertova věž západní
From the ledge in the north face over the ring to the ledge of the route Northwest… Rock Climbing
6-
Bertova věž západní
By the left west crack to the small balcony, along the ledge left to the ring, through… Rock Climbing
7
Bertova věž západní
Through the left part of the north face, along the crack to the flake and upwards. Rock Climbing

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