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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
4
Fráňova věž
To the south turret and traverse (ring) into the east chimney. From the ring also… Rock Climbing
3
Fráňova věž
From the north turret into the east chimney. Rock Climbing
6-
Fráňova věž
From the west from the boulder, up the overhanging wall to the ring, along the west edge… Rock Climbing
6
Fráňova věž
Up the wall directly (ring) to the ledge below the summit and along the SW edge to the…
7/7+
Fráňova věž
Along the northeast edge of the north turret to the ring, onto the sloping ledge and… Rock Climbing
9
Fráňova věž
From the 1st ring along the edge
2
Fráňova věž
From W via chimney (new variant).
6-
Fráňova věž
To the south turret and through the center of the south face or along the southeast edge. Rock Climbing
6
Fráňova věž
From the south turret into the south face and under the overhang left to the second ring. Rock Climbing
8
Pelíšek
Up the valley wall over the ring to the ledge and via the Valley Route. Rock Climbing
7
Pelíšek
Along the left edge of the pillar to the balcony. Along the arête near the NW edge,…
6-
Pelíšek
Along the SW edge to the ledge and via the Valley Route. Rock Climbing
6
Pelíšek
6
Pelíšek
Along the SW edge from the left (2 rings, new variant).
1
Pelíšek
From the east. Rock Climbing
8
Pelíšek
7
Pelíšek
Through the chimney to the ledge on the south face and along it over two rings. Rock Climbing
5
Pelíšek
To the right of the Old Route up the wall. Rock Climbing
5
Pelíšek
From the north to the northwest edge and along the arête. Rock Climbing
9
Pedel
From the gorge up the wall (ring) to a ledge and directly or diagonally left to the…
Přeskok
Rektorka - západní věž
By a jump from Rector's Tower V. Rock Climbing
5
Rektorka - západní věž
Via the north crack to the saddle. Rock Climbing
9
Rektorka - západní věž
Left from Mowgli's Crack or directly up the wall to the ring, through a small crack to… Rock Climbing
6
Rektorka - západní věž
Via the valley chimney, left into a crack (ring) to a ledge and up the chimney. Rock Climbing
7
Rektorka - západní věž
Rock Climbing
7
Pedel
Center of the wall to the summit.
6-
Pedel
Through the middle of the wall (ring) to the summit.
4
Pedel
From the West traverse into the North face and up it to the summit.
2
Pedel
Along the West edge to the summit
7-/7
Rektorka - západní věž
From a prominent north ledge right to a crack, up it over a ring to a ledge and via the… Rock Climbing

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