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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
6-
Hastrman
Along the edge (ring, sling) to the shelf and right via the "Valley Chimney" to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Hastrman
Over the overhanging edge into the second ledge and up the wall right to the 1st ring. Up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Hastrman
From the left inner corner (left of the pond area) using a small edge upwards into a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Galaxie
Through the small corner (1st ring) to the end and up to the 2nd ring. From the right… Rock Climbing
5
Fox
Rock Climbing
7
Fox
Through the right part of the plateau wall to the ring. Along the shelf left into the… Rock Climbing
6
Fox
Up the wall to the left of "N. c." over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Fox
From the NW through the gully to the balcony to the ring, briefly left and along the… Rock Climbing
6
Džbánek
Through the right part of the valley wall to the overhanging edge (ring). Up the wall… Rock Climbing
?
Džbánek
Two rings and a pine tree. Rock Climbing
6-
Džbánek
From the fore-rock from the East wall to the 1st ring. Along the notch and up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Džbánek
Through the left part of the plateau wall over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Děravá věž
Up the center of the plateau wall directly to the crack and through it to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Děravá věž
From the path through the indentation to the small pillar, along the crack, right to the… Rock Climbing
3
Čmelák
Rock Climbing
5
Děravá věž
From the plateau side up and diagonally right to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Čmelák
Rock Climbing
7-/7
Čertova stěna
Along the chimney/flue to the ring, directly to the small chimney/flue crack and through… Rock Climbing
6-
Čertova stěna
Along the edge over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Čertova stěna
Up the center of the wall to the ring. Diagonally right to the edge and along it to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Čertova stěna
Via the chimney/flue (slings) to the end (small hourglasses) and diagonally slab over the… Rock Climbing
7
Čertova stěna
Crack over the overhang. Rock Climbing
8
Čertova stěna
From the center of the wall diagonally right (sling) to the ring. Along the edge and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Čertova stěna
Up the wall of the pillar under the overhang to the ring and over it to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Bratři
Along the edge, which higher up transitions into the wall to the ring, up the center of… Rock Climbing
6-
Brána
From the bank, up the wall over two rings and an hourglass to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Brána
Along the edge to the 1st and 2nd rings (left). Up to the ledge and from the right side… Rock Climbing
6
Brána
Briefly by opposition above the passage and along the edge to the ring. Up the wall near… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Bratři
Rock Climbing
6
Borůvka
Along the short chimney/flue and diagonally left to the 1st ring. Up under the overhang,… Rock Climbing

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