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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
6
Borůvka
Along the short chimney/flue and diagonally left to the 1st ring. Up under the overhang,… Rock Climbing
7
Borůvka
Left of the chimney through the wall directly to the ring. Directly to the ledge and… Rock Climbing
6
Borůvka
Along the short corner and obliquely left to the 1st ring. Up under the overhang, over it… Rock Climbing
7
Borová věž
m left of "N. c." to the shelf, through the sloping notch to another shelf, up the… Rock Climbing
6
Borová věž
As "Rošťácká cesta" through the center of the plateau wall to a large shelf. Along it… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Bochánek
Through the brittle wall obliquely left to the ring. Directly over the hour-glass to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Borová věž
Through the center of the wall to the block (belay), from the right into the ledge and… Rock Climbing
6
Borová věž
Through the left part of the plateau wall left behind the edge to the ring. Left onto the… Rock Climbing
4
Borová věž
Through the plateau wall to the ledge, right to the edge, along it to the balcony (ring).… Rock Climbing
6-
Bochánek
From the deadwood right to the edge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Bochánek
Directly to the ring, slightly from the left above it and directly (hour-glass) to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Bochánek
Through the wall directly to the deadwood, directly into the holes, traverse right and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Apache
From the edge obliquely left to the step and obliquely right to the ring. Directly to the… Rock Climbing
5
Čarodějka
Up the V edge, right into the N wall, through it over the overhang into the gully and up…
6
Čarodějka
Through the East wall directly to the ring.
6
Čarodějka
Through the N wall right under the overhang, over the overhang into the hole and along…
7
Turistická věž
Through the wall over the ring to the summit.
6
Čarodějka
In the right part of the N wall obliquely right to the NW edge and along the edge to the…
7
Čarodějka
From the center of the SW wall obliquely left into the hole to the ring and obliquely…
5
Slepice
Through the E wall to the balcony, traverse right to the edge (hour-glass). Behind the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Slepice
Along the NW edge to the ring and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Slepice
Through the center of the E wall to the ledge, left behind the SE edge to the ring and…
3
Kuřátko
Along the edge below the abseil. Rock Climbing
4
Kuřátko
In the left part of the plateau wall along the crack and up the wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Kuřátko
Up the chimney in the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
4
Kuřátko
To the right of the plateau chimney up the center of the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Kuřátko
Up the chimney in the valley wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
4
Hranol
Up the NE face to a ledge, left via the gully (hourglass/thread-through anchor) to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Hranol
Up the NE face to a ledge, then diagonally right to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Hranol
Up the center of the SW face over two hourglasses (thread-through anchors) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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