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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
7
Mouřenín
Along the Southwest edge. Rock Climbing
3
Mouřenín
Rock Climbing
6-
Mouřenín
To the right of the South Right Crack route, traverse to the southeast edge (ring) and… Rock Climbing
6-
Mouřenín
Up the south face to the shallow crack, over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Mouřenín
Along the edge directly to the ring.
8
Mouřenín
Traverse the lower ledge right to the edge (ring) and along the edge to the 1st ring.
7-/7
Mouřenín
From the small balcony under the south face, over two ledges to the first ring. Up left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Mouřenín
From the east to the ledge and along the northeast edge. Rock Climbing
7
Mouřenín
From the east via a distinctive crack. Rock Climbing
7
Mouřenín
Traverse the north face to the NE edge and over the overhang upwards. Rock Climbing
7
Mouřenín
Up the face to the left of the east crack via a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Mouřenín
Along the edge, higher up left via the face (ring) to the summit.
6-
Mouřenín
From the north to the ledge and through the center of the north face. Rock Climbing
2
Eunuch
Up the left part of the small face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Mouřenín
From the north via the corner crack, then the chimney. Rock Climbing
6
Eunuch
Up the corner briefly and left into the face towards the clock. Along the edge to the…
6-
Eunuch
From the left valley edge up the slab to the right edge (ring) and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Eunuch
Up the short plateau face to the summit Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Eunuch
6
Zakletá
From the grassy ledge in the N wall of Ervín's Castle, through the chimney in the E wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Zakletá
Along the pillar, partially by stemming to the 1st ring. Above the ring, traverse left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Ervín
From the block on the upper edge, step across and up the SW edge (hourglasses) to the…
6
Ervín
In the valley wall, up the crack to the pillar of the Old Route and like this one to the… Spare Route
4
Baba
Rock Climbing
2
Ervín
From the south via a crack to the balcony and up the smooth east wall. Rock Climbing
6
Baba
Up the pillar on the right side of the overhang, up the slab to the ledge and left along… Rock Climbing
6
Baba
From the ring directly along the small crack. Rock Climbing
5
Baba
Through the corner and diagonally left to the ledge to the ring. Traverse left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Baba
Up the middle of the wall directly to the ledge and up the small wall to the left of the… Rock Climbing
6-
Baba
Along the NE edge via a friable overhang. Rock Climbing

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