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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
6-
Čertova věž
From the east via small gullies/cracks and up the face to the ring and to the balcony on… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Čertova věž
Along the left accessible/climbable edge over four rings to the summit.
6-
Richelieu
To the right along the northwest edge over a ring, higher up via the North Face route.
6
Čertova věž
Up the northwest overhanging face to the first ring, left over the overhang to the second… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Richelieu
From the platform of Březová věž (Birch Tower) to the small balcony on the South face.
7
Richelieu
Along the right part of the south face to the ring, higher up to the balcony and via the…
7-/7
Richelieu
Along the East edge over a ring (not specified/visible).
6-
Richelieu
From the northwest edge diagonally left to a ring, diagonally right to an indentation … Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Richelieu
Along the gully/crack in the North face to the ring, left onto the edge, along it to the… Rock Climbing
6
Richelieu
Along the southwest edge to the shelf on the southwest face, traverse to the northwest… Rock Climbing
6-
Čertova věž
Over the overhang to the right into the southwest face and left to the crack, along it… Rock Climbing
6-
Richelieu
Directly or traverse in the ledge to the crack and along it to the ring. Directly to the…
6
Richelieu
Directly to the 1st ring of the 'North Face'. Directly onto the shelf and directly up the…
6
Richelieu
Through the indentation directly to the 2nd ring of the North Face and directly to the…
4
Richelieu
From the southwest edge to the corner in the south face, through it to the ring, higher… Rock Climbing
2
Šamšula
Through the chimney and via the “Old Route” right to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Šamšula
Through the right part of the north face to the ring, right to the edge and up it. Rock Climbing
7
Šamšula
Through the middle of the north face diagonally right to the ring, right or left upwards. Rock Climbing
7
Šamšula
Up the south face over the ring. Rock Climbing
2
Šamšula
From the east to the ledge in the north face and along it. Rock Climbing
6-
Šamšula
From the west up the wall over the overhang and upwards to the summit.
4
Lesní věžička
By overhang from the east. Rock Climbing
6-
Lesní věžička
In the left part of the wall to the balcony and along the SW edge (ring) to the summit.
2
Lesní věžička
From the E edge to the balcony in the S wall, traverse left to the corner and up it to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Lesní věžička
Along the northwest edge over three rings. Rock Climbing
7
Lesní věžička
North left edge. Rock Climbing
4
Lesní věžička
Rock Climbing
1
Lesní věžička
Rock Climbing
7
Bierhanzl
By the west edge (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Bierhanzl
From the south. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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