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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
7
Lesní věžička
Center of the south face to the ring and left by crack to the top.
2
Bierhanzl
From the east, descent and overhang or short chimney to the top.
8
Myší masiv
1
Inspektor Trachta
By V edge to the summit
1
Myší masiv
From the north, traverse to the top.
3
Myší masiv
7
Myší masiv
From NE via chimney 4m and right to the gully mouth. Through it to the end (ring) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Myší masiv
From NE to the crack and up it (2 rings) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Danka
6-
Becherův masiv
By crack in the center of the NW wall (ring) to the top.
6
Čingischán
By crack in the W wall Rock Climbing
6-
Panelák
Via a hand crack in the NW edge to its end (ring). Right into the gully and via a crack…
7
Panelák
Left to the edge and along it (1st ring) over a small overhang to the 2nd ring. Right…
5
Panelák
Via a crack in the center of the South face. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Panelák
Traverse behind the lower ledge (ring) to the crack and along it to the summit.
3
Sevřené věžičky
From the west via a chimney. Rock Climbing
4
Sevřené věžičky
From the west via a crack over wedged boulders. Rock Climbing
3
Sevřené věžičky
From the pre-summit via the south face, higher up.
4
Sevřené věžičky
From the south via a chimney and up the southeast face. Rock Climbing
4
Sevřené věžičky
Through the chimney to the pillar, wide crack to the saddle and up the east face. Rock Climbing
4
Sevřené věžičky
From the northern fore-rock via a crack. Rock Climbing
3
Sevřené věžičky
Through an open chimney to the saddle and up the north face. Rock Climbing
3
Sevřené věžičky
Via the left crack to the small tower and via the crack. Rock Climbing
7
Sevřené věžičky
From the north, via a small wall, higher up via a small crack. Rock Climbing
6-
Sevřené věžičky
From the northwest, along the edge to the ledge, diagonally left to the third tower.
4
Sevřené věžičky
From the east, via a chimney to the roof, higher up via a narrow chimney. Rock Climbing
2
Sevřené věžičky
From the west by a corner chimney. Rock Climbing
6-
Hroší věž
Along the left plateau edge to the 1st ring.
6
Hroší věž
Left of the east ridge by the north face, higher up along the ridge. Rock Climbing
7
Hroší věž
By the face to the ring and along the NE ridge to the summit.

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