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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
6-
Platinová stěna
Up the chimney wall over K n. t.
6-
Ocelové město
Center of the pillar to the ring and through a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Ocelové město
Through a crack to the top of the balancing boulder. Along the edge, higher up the wall… Rock Climbing
6-
Malá železná věž (Skautská věž)
Through a crack (ring) to the pillar, traverse left to the edge and along it to the ledge… Rock Climbing
4-
Platinová stěna
In the right part of the plateau wall, a small crack to the right of the corner to the… Rock Climbing
5
Malá železná věž (Skautská věž)
Through the chimney along the W edge to the ledge and traverse left to the ring. Left… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Malá železná věž (Skautská věž)
Center of the wall straight (1st ring) and higher right to the 2nd ring. Right into the… Rock Climbing
6
Platinová stěna
Along the edge to the ring and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Věž u Hříběte
Via the route "Granulated light" to the 2nd ring. Right onto the rounded edge, along it… Rock Climbing
4-
Věž u Hříběte
Middle of the wall Rock Climbing
5
Věž u Hříběte
6+/7-
Věž u Hříběte
In the right part of the NE wall, diagonally right to the 1st ring and directly over the… Rock Climbing
3
Věž u Hříběte
Left crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Věž u Hříběte
Left of "Psychotherapy" briefly stemming and up the wall to the 1st ring. Diagonally… Rock Climbing
6-
Věž u Hříběte
The route leads up the valley wall. From the gorge, traverse right into the valley wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Věž u Hříběte
From the block, traverse into the fragile wall and along it to the 1st ring. Up the… Rock Climbing
4+
Věž u Hříběte
Along the crack, higher up diagonally right into the valley wall and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Věž u Hříběte
Approach as "Friendly route" to the start of the traverse and up the wall directly over K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Věž u Hříběte
Traverse right over the pillar into the crack and up it. Rock Climbing
3
Věž u Hříběte
Through the chimney to the saddle and up the NW wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Věž u Hříběte
In the left part of the NE wall along the small chimney to the hourglass. Diagonally left… Rock Climbing
6-
Kobylí věž
Up the NE edge to the ring, then directly up the wall, traverse right into the crack,… Rock Climbing
5+
Kobylí věž
From the left, or directly via the edge to the balcony to the 1st ring. Right past the… Rock Climbing
6-
Kobylí věž
Right of the route "Staříkova" along the edge to the ring and right via the small corner… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Kobylí věž
From the center of the wall up the steps right and up to the 1st ring. Directly to the… Rock Climbing
6
Kobylí věž
Between the routes Northeast Ridge and Normal from below up the wall (cleanly) to the… Rock Climbing
6
Kobylí věž
Up the valley wall over three rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Kobylí věž
Along the crack to the pillar and up the SW wall directly to the ring. Directly to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Kobylí věž
Through the crack into the hole and via the crack over the ring to the 2nd ring. Rock Climbing
5+
Mustang
By stemming, higher up the wall over two rings from the left to the summit. Rock Climbing

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