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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
8/8+
Kobylí věž
Right of the "Edible Variant" up the wall with difficulty into the hole and over 4 rings… Rock Climbing
4+
Mustang
In the right part of the NE wall via the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Mustang
Via the small chimney (knot) to the ring. Up the wall to the 2nd ring, left into the… Rock Climbing
6-
Kobylí věž
From the boulder, traverse into the notch, through it to the ledge, along it left (1st… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Kobylí věž
Right of the "Edible Variant" briefly up the corner and traverse left into the hole.… Rock Climbing
6-
Mustang
Left of the crack up the wall over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Mustang
By stemming, higher up the wall over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Mustang
By stemming, higher up the wall over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Mustang
From the corner left to the edge. Up that, higher left to the ring. Rock Climbing
5+
Mustang
Right of the corner crack up the wall over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Mustang
By stemming, higher up along the edge over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Mustang
Via the small corner at the edge to the ledge and traverse right along it to the center… Rock Climbing
5+
Podkoní
Along the right edge over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Podkoní
By jumping from the adjacent massif. Rock Climbing
5+
Podkoní
Along the edge below the overhang, right along the crack to the balcony and through the… Rock Climbing
5
Listnáč
Along the crack over a ring to the balcony. Rock Climbing
5+
Innominata
Along the slanted ledge right beyond the edge into the SW wall to the ring. Slightly down… Rock Climbing
6
Innominata
Up the wall below the abseil point, briefly up and left over two rings via the crack to… Rock Climbing
5+
Innominata
Up the plateau wall from the left to the ring. Along the slanted notch to the cornice and… Rock Climbing
4
Listnáč
Up the wall and along the crack (knot) below the overhang (ring). Right below the… Rock Climbing
6-
Heiliger geist
Up the wall over the ring into the crack and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Heiliger geist
In the left part of the E face of the massif up the wall over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Heiliger geist
Up the wall (1st ring) into the crack and up it over the 2nd ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Heiliger geist
Traverse right through the gully and up the wall to the 1st ring. Directly and right over… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Heiliger geist
Along the right lower edge over five rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Africa
Up the overhanging wall to the ledge at the edge. Up the wall along the edge to the ring,… Rock Climbing
6
Africa
Directly up the wall over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Africa
Over the overhang (1st ring) to the 2nd ring, right to the edge and along it (3rd ring),… Rock Climbing
6-
National bank
Briefly up the crack and left up the center of the pillar over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
National bank
Along the crack and directly up the wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing

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