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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
4
Dominik
Rock Climbing
4
Dominik
Up the corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Žehrovská věž
Up the left part of the valley wall to the crack near the edge, along it to the ring,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Žehrovská věž
Through the center of the wall and diagonally right to the small balcony on the edge to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Záhon
From the Gully in the SE face diagonally right to the edge and up the steps to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Virunga
Up the wall directly to the 1st ring. Up and slightly to the right to the 2nd ring. From… Rock Climbing
6
Virunga
Through a short corner and left onto the shelf to the hourglass. Up the small wall to the… Rock Climbing
8
Virunga
Through the hollow (loops) to the end (hourglass) and from the left to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Záhon
From the SW saddle to the summit. By stemming, then traverse into the wall and to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Záhon
Up the blunt SW edge, then diagonally left (hourglass) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Záhon
Up the gully in the SE face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Virunga
From the 1st ring of "Hellish Darkness" in an arc from the left above the ring and… Rock Climbing
6-
Virunga
From the 1st ring of "Light Fogs" along the edge over the 2nd ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Virunga
Up the wall directly to the 1st and 2nd ring. Slightly to the right onto the ledge and… Rock Climbing
8
Virunga
Up the wall directly to the 1st ring. Up and slightly to the right to the 2nd ring. From… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Věž Honzy Urbana
Through the chimney in the N face to the fore-summit and up the small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Virunga
Along the crack to the 1st ring. Directly (in the ledge with an hourglass) to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Starý hrad - II
German climbers: From the start of "N. c." by chimneying to the ring and up the wall to… Rock Climbing
8
Starý hrad - II
Over the top onto the left plateau edge, via the small pinnacle to the ledge and left to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Starý hrad - II
Diagonally right to the ledge and directly over the hole (sling) to the ring. Directly … Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Starý hrad - II
From the massif, descend via the crack, traverse into the wall and via the "N. c." crack… Rock Climbing
6
Starý hrad - II
Through the center of the S face to the ring, diagonally left to the edge and along it to… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Starý hrad - II
Rock Climbing
8
Starý hrad - II
From the 1st ring of "Mlynář's Edge" directly over the 2nd ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Starý hrad - II
Up the wall along the edge to the 1st and 2nd rings. Up to the ledge and from the left to… Rock Climbing
6
Starý hrad - II
Up the wall along the edge and along the crack (slings) to the ring. Along the edge into… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Starý hrad - II
Up the wall over three rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Starý hrad - II
From the 1st ring of "Němeček's Legacy" up the wall over the 2nd ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Starý hrad - II
Along the left valley edge to the balcony, via the crack (ring) into the ledge and along… Rock Climbing
2
Ropucha
From the S, step over from the boulder and along the SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing

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