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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
8
Starý hrad - I
Up the wall directly to the small pinnacle and via it (sling) to the 1st ring. Directly… Rock Climbing Textile belay
9
Starý hrad - I
Directly to the bolt, diagonally left to the crack (sling), or from the bolt up under the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Starý hrad - I
Through the right part of the south face over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Starý hrad - I
Along the left plateau edge to the ring, up the wall to the ledge and to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Starý hrad - I
By chimneying in the center of the plateau face or directly up the wall via the ring to… Rock Climbing
6-
Skorověž
Follow the crack under the overhang to the ring. Over the overhang and directly to the… Rock Climbing
2
Schodiště
Rock Climbing
8-/8
Starý hrad - I
In the 1st ledge under the overhang, traverse right into the north face to the crack and… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Starý hrad - I
Follow the small crack under the overhang to the 1st ring. From the right over the… Rock Climbing
6
Pekařův hrad
Along the NE edge via the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Podemlejnská věž
Through the center of the valley face via the ring and hole to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Podemlejnská věž
From the left part of the plateau face by chimneying to the edge, along it to the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Podemlejnská věž
In the left part of the plateau face by chimneying, higher up the wall to the 1st and 2nd… Rock Climbing
6
Podemlejnská věž
In the center of the plateau face by chimneying, higher up the wall over two rings to the… Rock Climbing
6
Pekařův hrad
Along the NE edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Podemlejnská věž
Via the "Through the Den" route to the ring. Upward to the right to the 2nd ring "N. c."… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Podemlejnská věž
Through the right part of the plateau face to the ring and directly over the small cave… Rock Climbing
5
Pekařka
Along the SW edge (sling) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Pekařova brána
Start above the wall. Through the center of the wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Pekařova brána
From the road directly to the ring, directly into the ledge under the overhang and… Rock Climbing
6-
Pekařův hrad
Through the center of the north face (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Pekařův hrad
From the SW, through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Pekařův hrad
In the right part of the south face, follow the crack to the edge and then to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Pekařův hrad
Through the center of the south face to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Pekařova brána
Up the spiral stairs from the road, left to the bridge and via a short wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Pekařova brána
Along the wall to the small corner and through it, past the pine tree, to the ledge.… Rock Climbing
2
Pekařův hrad
From the east, through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Pekařka
Through the left part of the wall. Rock Climbing
6
Pekařka
Through the right part of the north face to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Pekařka
Rock Climbing

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