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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
7
Blatník
From the upper tunnel of the "Northwest Chimney" a few steps right into a crumbly crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Blatník
Start in the center of the NE wall. Directly up to the large 'clock', from there right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Anebo
From the buttress, traverse right to a small crack and along it into the tunnel. Rock Climbing
6
Blatník
"N. c." to the balcony, then left up a sloping, higher up vertical wall to the ring. Up,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Blatník
"N. c." to the balcony. Through an open corner to the left of "N. c." to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Blatník
From the "N. c." balcony, along the edge to the ring and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Blatník
Up the chimney directly to the NE ridge and then up the steps to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Anebo
Via "Východní cesta" (East route) to the hole with the hourglass. Further directly via… Rock Climbing
3
Blatník
From the east, a short crack leads to a sloping balcony. Then to the southeast chimney… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Anebo
From the start of "N. c." via the chimney to the South buttress. From there, via the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Anebo
From the East buttress via the wall to the ledge and along the arête to the ring. Via… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Anebo
Via the sloping wall into the hollow to the hourglass, right to the ring and diagonally… Rock Climbing
9/9+
Anebo
Via the wall over two rings to the hourglass, diagonally right to the 3rd ring and via… Rock Climbing
?
Anebo
Arête left of "Pepa runs", ring. Rock Climbing
6
Anebo
Via the corner crack to the East buttress. Via the crack to a ledge and along it left… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Anebo
Via the overhanging crack to the end (1st ring). Directly up the wall to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Anebo
Via the crack over the ring into holes (crossing the route "Já bych chtěl žít" - I would… Rock Climbing
7
Anebo
From the corner to the SW buttress. Below its summit, left to the ledge and along it to… Rock Climbing
5
Anebo
From the SW via a chimney to the buttress. Along a fragile crack to a ledge, along it… Rock Climbing
8
Anebo
Along the South arête to the ring and from the left to the buttress. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Anebo
Start about 5m right of the arête. Via the wall to the small chimney and along it to its… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Anebo
Briefly via the corner and traverse left to the 1st ring. Directly over the 2nd and 3rd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Anebo
Via the wall right of the chimney to the ledge (hourglass), via the small chimney (ring)… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Anebo
Along the arête to the ring, difficult right to the small chimney and via it (hourglass),… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Anebo
Via the overhanging crack in the right half of the NE face over the ring into the tunnel.… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Perníková
Through the middle of the SW face over 2 rings and right to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Perníková
Start in the right part of the NE face. Up the wall diagonally left into the niche at the… Rock Climbing
6
Fifanka
Along the North arête to a notch. Here, left to small hourglasses in the NE face. Aid… Rock Climbing
6-
Perníková
Start in the right part of the NE face. Up the wall to the ring and further to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Perníková
Along the arête to the pinnacle, over the overhang right to the ring and via the wall to… Rock Climbing

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