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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
7/7+
Perníková
Along the North arête over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Laholestein
From the south via the chimney between Kvak and the valley fore-peak and up the step to…
7-/7
Kobyla
Up the center of the south face via a ring to the first ring of the South Face,… Rock Climbing
8
Kobyla
From the first ring of the south face, diagonally left to the hour-glass, up the crack to… Rock Climbing
7
Kobyla
Up the chimney between Kobyla and Kobylí Tower, higher diagonally right up the south face… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Kobyla
Up the north face to the second ring, by posture and up the face to the third ring,… Rock Climbing
8
Kobyla
In the north face of Kobylí Tower to the ledge (ring above). Descend the rib and step…
7-/7
Kobyla
From the north face, left to the hour-glass on the eastern edge, by posture and up the… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Kobyla
From Kobylí Tower. Rock Climbing
5
Tři sedla - střední věž
From the chimney along the small flakes directly to the south crack of the "East Route"…
6
Tři sedla - severní věž
From the boulder to the ring, up the small flake (protection) left to the balcony and to…
7-/7
Tři sedla - severní věž
Traverse into the left part of the north face and to the ring, by non-sporting posture… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Tři sedla - střední věž
Along the SW edge (ring) to the pre-summit and by "Safírová cesta" (Sapphire Route) to… Rock Climbing
7
Tři sedla - střední věž
Through the chimney between the north and middle tower to the western pre-summit, along… Rock Climbing
8
Tři sedla - střední věž
To the right of the east edge, along the left part of the north face to the clock,… Rock Climbing
7
Tři sedla - střední věž
From the north, traverse diagonally left to the hour-glass on the eastern edge below the… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Tři sedla - střední věž
From the North Tower. Rock Climbing
6-
Tři sedla - severní věž
From the passage along the crack, higher up left to the edge (ring) and along it to the… Rock Climbing
6
Tři sedla - severní věž
From the north, traverse into the overhanging right crack and up it.
5
Tři sedla - severní věž
Up the diagonal crack to the balcony and to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Tři sedla - severní věž
Up the right part of the valley wall to a ledge, then left along it and up small flakes…
Přeskok
Tři sedla - jižní věž
By jumping from the summit of Střední věž (Middle Tower). Rock Climbing
6
Trojhrbá věž
From the south right to the bench and along it to the east edge (ring), right into the… Rock Climbing
8
Trojhrbá věž
6-
Trojhrbá věž
Along the right part of the north face over the ring. Rock Climbing
8
Trojhrbá věž
5
Trojhrbá věž
Along the western edge. Rock Climbing
4
Hodinková věž
Rock Climbing
6-
Hodinková věž
Up the north face over the ring. Rock Climbing
2
Hodinková věž
Up the short wall to the summit. Rock Climbing

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