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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
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Velká skautská věž
4
Velká skautská věž
From the turret along the southeast edge. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Malá skautská věž
3
Velká skautská věž
7-/7
Velká skautská věž
Left part of the south face into the west face to the first ring. Along the northwest… Rock Climbing
3
Velká skautská věž
From the east, up the chimney and overpass into the south face, up the crack. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Malá skautská věž
?
Velká skautská věž
Overpass from the Small Scout Tower into the north face and up the crack. Rock Climbing
6
Velká skautská věž
From the east, to the right of the path, through cracks over the ring upwards. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Velká skautská věž
6-
Malá skautská věž
Rock Climbing
7
Táborská věž
From the left part of the east face diagonally over two rings to the northeast edge and… Rock Climbing
6-
Táborská věž
From the second ring straight up. Rock Climbing
7
Malá skautská věž
Through the small crack to the left of the edge to the small balcony and diagonally left … Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Táborská věž
From the east edge of the Small Scout Tower to the balcony of the South Route. Rock Climbing
8
Táborská věž
Through the right part of the wall over the ring to the 2nd ring of the "East Route" and… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Malá skautská věž
From Tábor Tower to the small balcony below the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Malá skautská věž
By opposition between the Small and Great Scout Towers and higher up via a crack on the… Rock Climbing
6
Malá skautská věž
In the left part of the north face diagonally along the ledge to a small balcony and via… Rock Climbing
7
Malá skautská věž
Along the west edge, up the wall to the ring and diagonally right. Rock Climbing
7
Malá skautská věž
Rock Climbing
7
Malá skautská věž
From the ring straight up along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Táborská věž
Through the left part of the north face over two rings. Rock Climbing
6-
Táborská věž
From the ring diagonally left to the southeast edge and follow it. Rock Climbing
6
Hláska
Through the chimney below the mouth of the small crack (ring) and up it. Rock Climbing
7
Hláska
To the left of the "East Chimney" up the wall along the right edge of the pillar over 3… Rock Climbing
6
Táborská věž
To the right of the northwest edge, higher up left into the north face over the ring to… Rock Climbing
3
Hláska
From the east via the right or left chimney to the saddle and by the Old Route. Rock Climbing
6
Táborská věž
Via the NW edge (BH) directly to the ring of the "November Route" and follow it to the… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Hláska
From the southern fore-summit. Rock Climbing

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