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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
6
Náhrobní kámen
Via a diagonal crack over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Prašivka
From NW from the forepeak along the crack to the summit Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Přeskakové věže
Jump from the massif (1) to the E tower, then over the chimney jump (2) to the W tower … Rock Climbing
5
Bezděčínská věž
Through the South Chimney up to two-thirds of the height. Left into a notch and through… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Puklá věž
From the intermediate tower (plateau side) along the left (eastern) edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Tanker
Via the Ropnej šok route to the 1st ring, left past the edge into the groove, via it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Ztracená země
From the lowest point of the right part of the valley face, via 'hodiny' (hourglass) to a… Rock Climbing
7
Skalní hřib
Via the eastern wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Slon (Sova)
From the N, traverse right into the hole (hourglass) and via the smooth NW hollow to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Strážní věž
Route for practicing technical climbing with a small roof Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay
7
Spárová věž
Via the right part of the plateau wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Spárová věž
Via a delicate small crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Spárová věž
Through the middle of the wall to the bolt and through the holes to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Rovné skály
in the right part of the valley face briefly up the chimney to the ledge. Up the thin… Rock Climbing
6
Spárová věž
Via the wall left of NC to the crack, and via the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Spárová věž
Via the corner and crack to the block (ring). From the left, a powerful lift/hoist to the… Rock Climbing
3
Šikmá věžička
Through the middle of the plateau wall to the summit Rock Climbing
?
Šupák
By jumping from the edge. Rock Climbing
4
Tágo
Along the left valley edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Bizon
Crack to the right of NC Rock Climbing
4
Šikmá věžička
In the right part of the plateau wall directly to the hourglass and to the summit Rock Climbing
6-
Věž pod vyhlídkou (Zmýlená)
Through the middle of the wall to the ring and directly to the hourglass, like Valdezova… Rock Climbing
5
Věž pod vyhlídkou (Zmýlená)
As a variation of the E wall to the ledge and to the right of the East wall by a shallow… Rock Climbing
6-
Věž pod vyhlídkou (Zmýlená)
Along the SW edge over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Věž pod vyhlídkou (Zmýlená)
From the passage to the ledge and traverse left over three hourglasses and through the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Srubová stěna
Diagonal variation to the ring. Right up the wall to the next ring. Lift into the fissure… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Věž pod vyhlídkou (Zmýlená)
To the left of the E wall, over an overhang into the ledge of the path 'Under the Rappel'… Rock Climbing
4
Věž pod vyhlídkou (Zmýlená)
To the left of the rappel to the hourglass, traverse right and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing
3
Sborovna
Rock Climbing
7
Věž pod vyhlídkou (Zmýlená)
Overhanging wall to the ring, through the holes to the right to the ledge at the… Rock Climbing

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